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  #11  
Old 08-25-2016, 02:47 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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Originally Posted by Camaro Zach View Post
I have back purged with c25 before with ok results but people say it is not correct. I have also teed off of my argon hose and that worked ok as well.

A few years ago I did some welding for a shop building food processing equipment. They would spray the back side of the part being welded with wd40. I guess as it burned away it would shield the weld. I haven't tried it on exhaust tubing yet but it worked great for them.

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I work on almost exclusively stainless for food processing industry and have never seen or heard of this.

I recommend 100% argon for purging. A dual flow meter is nice if you are ok with spending the money on something it sounds like you will seldom use. A cheaper option may be to purchase a Y-splitter with valves to connect two hoses to a single regulator. Connect your torch to one and purge hose to the other- only costs about $40. Tape off your pipe and purge from the lowest point at the high end tape it off with a 1/4" hole . Set the purge to feel like as strong as a normal exhale through your nostrils coming out of the hole in the tape. It is also good practice to tape off all of your unwelded joints.
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  #12  
Old 08-25-2016, 03:25 PM
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I would be comfortable with a y-splitter with two valves. Purge the pipe first, then choke down the flow so only a bit gets through. Note the purge flow rate. Then open up the other valve and set the flow to what you want plus the additional purge flow.
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  #13  
Old 08-25-2016, 04:48 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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I agree. I have subcontracted to about the biggest company in stainless process systems and they all use the single flowmeter to a y-splitter with valves. My company spends the couple hundred extra dollars for the dual flowmeter. My personal opinion is both get the job done equally well with a skilled professional using it. Dual flowmeter is easier for a novice but it really doesn't matter enough on exhaust pipe to pay for the slight convenience of a separate gauge for each line.
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:22 PM
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This is a very interesting subject for me, I do some stainless pipe, not sanitary, just process pipe for our equipment, I'll be looking into the y and valve parts to pull this off, one of these days. These are regular welding store parts?

Thanks

Scott
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2016, 09:22 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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I bought one at my local welding shop for about $40. Also available on ebay. http://ebay.com/itm/Argon-411-Y-fitt...368?nav=SEARCH
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  #16  
Old 08-26-2016, 08:06 AM
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Western Enterprises #411. Here it is for $32 delivered:

http://www.bakersgas.com/NAS312-411....FQdZhgoddncCxQ


$28. at weldingsupply (weldwarehouse), but don't know about shipping.

https://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/ei...LDWH:1:312=411
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2016, 05:38 PM
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Thank you Gentlemen,

I went by the welding store after looking at the information and picked up the parts today. The same parts you have supplied. I got a piece of hose that screwed in as well.

I forgot some tape to seal ends up with. Is this a duct tape and cardboard project or special tape?

Thanks for helping out with my many questions.

Scott
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  #18  
Old 08-26-2016, 08:11 PM
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Depending on the set up, I have used masking tape before. Actually I tried it this morning on a sink disposal mount at the county jail, but it didn't want to stick too good and I wasn't really set up to purge with a separate line so I gave that idea up when it started smoking. Decided I did not want to set of smoke alarms. If iCloud have got it set far enough away from the weld and you have good access to the welds, you can go pretty fast and keep heat down. I wasn't quite in a comfortable position so I couldn't keep my travel speed up to as fast as I wanted so the heat started smoking the tape.

I have used aluminum tape in the past also. Also keep a roll of aluminum foil at the shop. It all depends on the joint needed to cover. But if at all possible, I will try to use the lay wire technique and move really fast.. This seems to help not overheating the backside and keep the sugaring down. Today I would weld about and inch and then put a wet rag on the stainless to take some off the heat away. Had a little sugaring on the back side, but I think it was water right.

Brian
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2016, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
Thank you Gentlemen,

I went by the welding store after looking at the information and picked up the parts today. The same parts you have supplied. I got a piece of hose that screwed in as well.

I forgot some tape to seal ends up with. Is this a duct tape and cardboard project or special tape?

Thanks for helping out with my many questions.

Scott
Like I mentioned before we used rice paper and masking tape
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2016, 10:56 PM
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I invested in one of these a couple years ago. Best price I could find at the time.
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