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Old 05-19-2017, 10:28 AM
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Default That other four letter word-paint

I tried to put this in the tech section, but it wouldn't let me. Here is the $.64 question. When painting a large metal object, think tractor trailer or bus, how do you prep the old paint, rust etc. I'm sure people don't hand sand the sides of a semi, there has got to be an easier way. I have a school bus converted to a camper. The original yellow and two coats of red are peeling off. I plan on wire brushing to get the loose stuff off but need a way to make the new paint stick. I'm not concerned with the finish, the bus is 35 years old and the road worms have been lunching on it. I just want to make it so it isn't calico.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:09 AM
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sand blast?? with a fine sand.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:20 AM
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To get the paint to stick you have to get the peeling and oxidized paint off. It can be done by sanding with an air sander or even a random orbit sander. Dusty nasty job on something that large. Blasting would be much quicker. You are going to have a lot of masking with so many bus windows.
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:59 PM
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Chemical deglosser is what you want.
http://tciproducts.com/product/212/L...e-(12-x-Quart)
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrash View Post
Chemical deglosser is what you want.
http://tciproducts.com/product/212/L...e-(12-x-Quart)
From his description, he does not have any gloss to degloss.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:15 PM
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Remove flaking edge ,Degloss any thing that is left ,implement paint is tough to beat but usually not maintain gloss for many years .Rustoleum would be a good choice .Seymor is another decent tractor paint .

Now the pro says blast prime and paint .But heck are you ever going to show it enough to care.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:48 PM
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We just scuff it with 400 grit. Loose & peeling paint is a whole different game.

Dt
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
From his description, he does not have any gloss to degloss.
It etches for lack of a better term the paint surface to give it a tooth for the new paint to adhere. So it doesn't peel off in sheets in a month.
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Old 05-19-2017, 03:08 PM
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If finish is of no importance, but new adhesion is, a 200+- degree pressure washer, making at least 3k psi, would be the least painless, but yet effective way to remove the old finish, that is not very well adhered. Without the heat, the pressured water is almost worthless.

Id then hit the rusty areas, with a gallon or more of Rustoleum rusty metal primer, the balance would get a self etching primer, and then top coat, is your pick. The rusty metal primer needs to be sealed, when not using a rustoleum paint, I know, Ive tried not sealing it, it ends badly. Ive had bad luck with rustoleum paint, its absolute shit as far as Im concerned, but the primer is the bomb for what its intended use is.

Thats the fast cheap way for an effective, lasting finish that looks good from 6 yards.
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:05 PM
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I remember seeing acid etch primer.
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