Shop Floor Talk  

Go Back   Shop Floor Talk > Welding and Metalworking Forums > Mechanical & Electrical

SFT Search:   
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:20 AM
LW Hiway's Avatar
LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
Lord of the Minions
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Indian Bayou and Lake Charles, La.
Posts: 19,673
Default

Quote:
Expect I will never remove this cover ever again though.
yep, things I have heard that one might believe. lol Chris, over the years I've mostly seen the black RTV's used on chunk covers etc. and sparingly at that.

The good, the bad and the ugly of using RTV's and other sealants for form in place of gaskets is just how much of the stuff is used in lieu of a cut formed gasket. Some being hard paper type to a more rubberized type of material.

I've been privy to folks trying to seal val covers, m/c engine cases etc etc etc. with the thought being the more sealant used the better it will seal.

Simple things like using a special type of thread to seal engine cases on recip aircraft engines, silk comes to mind and have used the same material on some of the engines I have around the farm.

I've sealed engine cases on my racing m/c engines using very fine fishing line with good results to keep tolerances to a min.

When I do use an RTV for gaskets I always form a gasket of a particular thickness, letting it cure and then wiping on a thin film and putting things together.

If any here work on Detroits and have seen the gaskets used for the drive covers, the red sealant that is on said gaskets ready to install. I do about the same with or without the use of a hard/soft gasket.

Nothing worse than pulling a pan and checking the pump screen and finding errant bits and pieces of squeezed out RTV and sealants that traveled through the engine and it happens all the time.
__________________
God, if you would grant me one request through Prayer, please help me be the Man my Dog thinks I am. Please.

Collector of, shooter of and builder of "TightAir Guns".

I take on faith that a Twinkie will explode in a Microwave Oven with an average time of 45 seconds.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:30 AM
digger doug's Avatar
digger doug digger doug is offline
Not to be used as a Flotation Device
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 9,125
Default

Eggzachary LW....

Remember....for all that RTV you see squeezed OUT, the same got squeezed IN....

I like using a paper gasket, in which I apply a very thin smear of RTV both sides
(so thin the blue stuff looks clear after smoothed out) and like you, let
it tack up (gets a skin on it) for even less "squish out".
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:56 AM
milomilo's Avatar
milomilo milomilo is online now
Auction Addict
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheatland, Wyoming
Posts: 11,303
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
I use silicone, no gasket, just like all the automakers. Never had a lick of trouble with it.
2nd vote for silicone. I too have used it many times, but always sparingly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alchemist View Post
I have never had a problem with silicone. I think the anarobic stuff is for joining machined surfaces.
I have used the anaerobic for non machined surfaces too and it worked well. More expensive than silicone, but easier to remove later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
yep, things I have heard that one might believe. lol Chris, over the years I've mostly seen the black RTV's used on chunk covers etc. and sparingly at that.

The good, the bad and the ugly of using RTV's and other sealants for form in place of gaskets is just how much of the stuff is used in lieu of a cut formed gasket. Some being hard paper type to a more rubberized type of material.

I've been privy to folks trying to seal val covers, m/c engine cases etc etc etc. with the thought being the more sealant used the better it will seal.

Simple things like using a special type of thread to seal engine cases on recip aircraft engines, silk comes to mind and have used the same material on some of the engines I have around the farm.

I've sealed engine cases on my racing m/c engines using very fine fishing line with good results to keep tolerances to a min.

When I do use an RTV for gaskets I always form a gasket of a particular thickness, letting it cure and then wiping on a thin film and putting things together.

If any here work on Detroits and have seen the gaskets used for the drive covers, the red sealant that is on said gaskets ready to install. I do about the same with or without the use of a hard/soft gasket.

Nothing worse than pulling a pan and checking the pump screen and finding errant bits and pieces of squeezed out RTV and sealants that traveled through the engine and it happens all the time.
I too like to use a thin film and let it set to reduce squeeze out. Never had one leak that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
Eggzachary LW....

Remember....for all that RTV you see squeezed OUT, the same got squeezed IN....

I like using a paper gasket, in which I apply a very thin smear of RTV both sides
(so thin the blue stuff looks clear after smoothed out) and like you, let
it tack up (gets a skin on it) for even less "squish out".
Thanks all for your input. Like Red Green says "I'm a man, but I can change, If I have to, I guess."
__________________
Chris

Loyalty to the Nation all the time, loyalty to the Government when it deserves it. Mark Twain
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-07-2017, 09:05 AM
dubby's Avatar
dubby dubby is offline
Director: Fish Seduction
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 8,980
Default

Another silicone user here. I'm probably not so precise with it, but it's easier and suits my needs.

I pull the cover and clean off the cap real good while the rest of the diff is draining out. Usually I use one of the green-rubber die grinder surface prep pads. It's easier than scraping. If I want to get real fancy, I'll lay the cap down and spray paint the outside while I have it off. Once it's dry to the touch I flip it over and spread the sealant on the lip in a medium thickness and then spread it all out flat, covering the holes and all.

Then I do whatever needs doing to the diff case itself. Finish draining, wipe, clean the surface, repair--whatever. By the time I'm done the sealant on the cap is usually good to go. Depending on how hard the rubber has set, I'll poke a hole through the bolt holes, but usually it's unnecessary. I bolt the pan back on in a star pattern, like ya do a tire, then go back and snug it all down the same way.

Then refill.


I've been reading up on how to change out the limited-slip clutch discs in my old Bronco rearend here lately. Never have done that one before, and I think I have a bigger issue with the tone ring in there as well. When I hit 75mph the speedo starts bouncing around like crazy and I can't use the cruise control. The engine surges/idles too fast to keep the speed constant as it's trying to keep up. It has a speed sensor in the top of the housing with a little magnet or something I've replaced twice trying to fix the issue. It ain't worked so it must be on the inside
__________________
I've always had more time than money.

www.nfpd.us
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:02 AM
milomilo's Avatar
milomilo milomilo is online now
Auction Addict
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheatland, Wyoming
Posts: 11,303
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dubby View Post
Another silicone user here. I'm probably not so precise with it, but it's easier and suits my needs.

I pull the cover and clean off the cap real good while the rest of the diff is draining out. Usually I use one of the green-rubber die grinder surface prep pads. It's easier than scraping. If I want to get real fancy, I'll lay the cap down and spray paint the outside while I have it off. Once it's dry to the touch I flip it over and spread the sealant on the lip in a medium thickness and then spread it all out flat, covering the holes and all.

Then I do whatever needs doing to the diff case itself. Finish draining, wipe, clean the surface, repair--whatever. By the time I'm done the sealant on the cap is usually good to go. Depending on how hard the rubber has set, I'll poke a hole through the bolt holes, but usually it's unnecessary. I bolt the pan back on in a star pattern, like ya do a tire, then go back and snug it all down the same way.

Then refill.


I've been reading up on how to change out the limited-slip clutch discs in my old Bronco rearend here lately. Never have done that one before, and I think I have a bigger issue with the tone ring in there as well. When I hit 75mph the speedo starts bouncing around like crazy and I can't use the cruise control. The engine surges/idles too fast to keep the speed constant as it's trying to keep up. It has a speed sensor in the top of the housing with a little magnet or something I've replaced twice trying to fix the issue. It ain't worked so it must be on the inside
My Dodge has something new to me too. Along with the 85/140 I need to add a friction modifier too, since I tow a lot.

Not real fond of the new lube requirements they have come up with the last 15-20 years. Everything has to have it's own lube specs of the unit fails. I am convinced that they could design the gear innards and seals so everything could use the old gear oils. No doubt in my mind it is a money racket by the auto makers.
__________________
Chris

Loyalty to the Nation all the time, loyalty to the Government when it deserves it. Mark Twain
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:23 AM
digger doug's Avatar
digger doug digger doug is offline
Not to be used as a Flotation Device
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 9,125
Default

A limited slip in Texas ?

Learn sumthin' new everyday here....
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-07-2017, 07:45 PM
alchemist's Avatar
alchemist alchemist is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 1,183
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
My Dodge has something new to me too. Along with the 85/140 I need to add a friction modifier too, since I tow a lot.

Not real fond of the new lube requirements they have come up with the last 15-20 years. Everything has to have it's own lube specs of the unit fails. I am convinced that they could design the gear innards and seals so everything could use the old gear oils. No doubt in my mind it is a money racket by the auto makers.
The friction modifier is only for limited slip/posi type diffs with the friction clutches. As far as I know.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:14 PM
platypus20's Avatar
platypus20 platypus20 is offline
Boiler God
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: camillus, ny (syracuse)
Posts: 8,902
Default

Yamabond #5
__________________
jack
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-07-2017, 09:33 PM
arizonian's Avatar
arizonian arizonian is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 1,018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by platypus20 View Post
Yamabond #5
+1 on the Yamabond #5, works great for VW cases.
__________________
Bill in sunny Tucson

I believe in gun control.

Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at.

Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:26 PM
SmokinDodge's Avatar
SmokinDodge SmokinDodge is offline
SFT Executive Chef
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Missouri
Posts: 5,046
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by platypus20 View Post
Yamabond #5
Good luck. Last time I tried they said it was special order.

It is nice to have a tube or two on hand for those fuel related fixes.

I'm not a fan of "just silicone". The orange, red, black and blue silicones always leak after a period no matter what.

I have used loctite 5699 with alarming success, second only to international grey sealant. The IH grey when used on an oil pan would grab it tight enough to distort a stamped steel pan on removal. Anymore most late models are glued together. A Duramax doesn't have valve cover gaskets, just uses 5699. Of course it's designed to be that way.

Cummins specs the 5699 and it's some dang good stuff. Of course your only trying to seal a diff, a heavy grease would almost work........
__________________
The guy that said money can't buy happiness never bought a tank of fuel for a turbo diesel.............
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Web Search:

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.