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Old 11-28-2017, 10:23 PM
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Default Muggy Weld 77 electrodes

Anyone here ever use this for welding cast iron?
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:37 PM
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No comments?
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:47 PM
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I have never heard ofem before
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:47 PM
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No users.
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:58 PM
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Buyin' them is like being mugged....
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Old 11-29-2017, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Buyin' them is like being mugged....
They do seem a bit pricey.
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:02 AM
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It seems they hang out in Olympia, Washington.
Sounds like they may be a nice cast rod. Soft and stretchy.
I just bought a couple pounds of NiRod at $42/lb from Praxair, and that was $3 per rod, at half the price I was paying for at LWS.
Quote:
77 is a premium electrode that produces welds which are high strength, crack resistant, and porosity free when applied to a wide variety of cast irons. The special tri-metal core wire has a high current carrying capacity and the specially designed coating converts the impurities of the base metal into slag instead of being trapped in the deposit. The high deposition rate creates an extremely narrow heat affected zone– a feature suitable for all weldable cast irons requiring post weld machining.

77 cast iron welding rods are softer than nickel rods, and have unique properties that allow the cast iron welds to stretch and elongate up to 300 percent more than other rods, which helps prevent the base metal and weld from cracking in the process.

Key Features:

High efficiency weld metal transfer eliminates electrode overheating
Crack-resistant formula eliminates the need for pre-heating or special cooling
Ideal for heavy machinery, trucking, bus lines, automotive, marine, and RVs
Repair cast iron exhaust manifolds, engine blocks, industrial machines and more

Note: Guide the electrode at a steep angle, keeping the arc length short. Use short staggered
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Last edited by Ironman; 11-30-2017 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 01:08 PM
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Let us know how that Ni-rod works, sounds like a good one to have on hand.
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:17 PM
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As I'm no longer in the mix of the welding community as I once was, there are new and improved or at least improved filler material that is touted to be improved, bymmv in some particular ways.

I've ordered a few pounds of this filler due to this thread as I have an exh manifold for a 29 Hudson to repair cracks into the major flow areas of the manifold. I've done a few in the past with the typical Ni rod, both stick and TIG, with good results on these manifolds. I'd like to think I'm just that good but in reality I just happened upon exh parts with good properties in the base material to allow good success.

You'd think that the big 3 auto makers would have given as much of a shit in the quality of their bell housings, blocks etc as Hudson did with their use of cast iron engine parts. sigh......

I've often been told as well as in my readings on the subject that the success of a weld on CI was first it's carbon content and to include the quality of materials used, the ability of the controls at time of pour and quality of the mold process itself.

As Hudson manifolds of the 29 era were not coated like other manf's were having this glaring repair of a totally different bead material does not allow for an 'original' look. It's something the owner has to live with or find a non-cracked manifold for showing the car for judging.

I'm hoping that someone will give these Mug' rods a go and post back their findings in use and as well yay's or nay's in it's use for a particular part repair. It sure would make the money I spent on them worthy of future uses.

I'm currently using a filler wire and TIG gleaned from Leno's garage found some time back. The filler touts no need for pre or post heat controls, but I do so anyway with a little peening just after the weld is complete and of course the typical slow cooling.
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
As I'm no longer in the mix of the welding community as I once was, there are new and improved or at least improved filler material that is touted to be improved, bymmv in some particular ways.

I've ordered a few pounds of this filler due to this thread as I have an exh manifold for a 29 Hudson to repair cracks into the major flow areas of the manifold. I've done a few in the past with the typical Ni rod, both stick and TIG, with good results on these manifolds. I'd like to think I'm just that good but in reality I just happened upon exh parts with good properties in the base material to allow good success.

You'd think that the big 3 auto makers would have given as much of a shit in the quality of their bell housings, blocks etc as Hudson did with their use of cast iron engine parts. sigh......

I've often been told as well as in my readings on the subject that the success of a weld on CI was first it's carbon content and to include the quality of materials used, the ability of the controls at time of pour and quality of the mold process itself.

As Hudson manifolds of the 29 era were not coated like other manf's were having this glaring repair of a totally different bead material does not allow for an 'original' look. It's something the owner has to live with or find a non-cracked manifold for showing the car for judging.

I'm hoping that someone will give these Mug' rods a go and post back their findings in use and as well yay's or nay's in it's use for a particular part repair. It sure would make the money I spent on them worthy of future uses.

I'm currently using a filler wire and TIG gleaned from Leno's garage found some time back. The filler touts no need for pre or post heat controls, but I do so anyway with a little peening just after the weld is complete and of course the typical slow cooling.
I was not trying to sell anyone on this rod, just trying to see if anyone had tried it. Since CI has that no stretch character and this rod runs a more elastic bead, it did get my attention. Now that you ordered some I am going to do so as well.
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