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Old 10-18-2005, 07:10 PM
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Cavalry Cavalry is offline
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Default welded on axle truss?

Customer wants me to make a truss like this one. Any ideas how to weld it up so I dont distort the hell out of the housing. My ideas so far.... make some kind of fixture, holding it on the ends and pinion support and skip around to weld. Check it afterward and bend back true as necessary.

I have never done this before and dont want to ruin this dudes housing. Any ideas are appreciated. I dont want to get it done and find out I cant get it true!

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Old 10-18-2005, 07:24 PM
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Walker Walker is offline
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Once you get it all cut out and fitted (good tight fit up job), then tack it place in the middle and on the ends. After that it will be pretty rigid. Still, I think I would just skip weld it and not weld it all the way around.
You could take some measurements of it first to make sure it didn't move too much. I think I would start by leveling it on stands, then check the axle ends for true with a level. Then measure betwixt a point on the axle tubes (just make a punch mark) and the pinion yoke and record all these measurements. Then recheck 'em afterwards.
I am sure a rearend guy (automotive rear end) will chime in with perhaps an easier method, but if you level it up and triagulate a few measurements you should come pretty close.
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:25 PM
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Never done one of these but I do think you have the right idea.I don't believe it would have to be welded solid stitch might be the way to go?
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Old 10-18-2005, 08:00 PM
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Default a stich in time...

Cavalry, Patience is a VIRTUE. What's the application? If you want to save time, there are kit's availible from JEGS and SUMMIT, as well as several after market outfits like CURRIE and MARK WILLIAMS, that will save you lots of fab time, around $150.00. If you prefer to fab your own, a piece of 2 X 4 X .125 sq tube is the right place to start. plasma is the best way to trim it to the housing shape, less warpage. If you want , PM me the details, and I can walk you thru it. RED.
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:43 PM
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Thought of making a jig to hold the axle housing while you're welding it? Might want to do that and then like they said, stitch weld around it.
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Old 10-18-2005, 10:32 PM
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Make yourself a straight edge with cut outs for the pumpkin and brackets. Factory MDF has very straight edges. The other option is to make some stand-offs that will allow you to stretch a string. The two outer ones should be higher than the others as you can't easily stretch a straight string between more than two points They are a PITA to get aligned. Then you can check to make sure the axle isn't currently bent and check it afterwards.

Since it's a 9-inch, and likely out of a 4x4, it's probably already bent
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Old 10-19-2005, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED caddy
Cavalry, Patience is a VIRTUE. What's the application? If you want to save time, there are kit's availible from JEGS and SUMMIT, as well as several after market outfits like CURRIE and MARK WILLIAMS, that will save you lots of fab time, around $150.00. If you prefer to fab your own, a piece of 2 X 4 X .125 sq tube is the right place to start. plasma is the best way to trim it to the housing shape, less warpage. If you want , PM me the details, and I can walk you thru it. RED.

this is a currie axle (pictured) they start around $1K for this type. Will be for a 4WD truck. Dude does not want a traditional under axle truss. I will have no problems whatsoever in the fabrication of the truss. Thanks for the offer, but I just need info on how not to warp the piss out of it.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:50 PM
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I use a set of Y stands, with a pair of PTFE spuds stuck in the bearing housings, bolt the ground cable directly to one of the carrier studs. this rig allows you to flip-flop the housing easily. Or leave the axels and bearings in place,with a piece of 1.125" PVC pipe driven onto the axel ends, to hold them from flopping around, and catch 2 wheel studs with a piece of angle iron tacked to your weld table, on each end, this setup allows you to make all welds in the flat position, just roll the housing. It's easy to check the housing for straightness with a machinist square on the bench top, just roll it slow. If it's within 1/16th you're good to go. DO NOT just use the ground lead clamp, it WILL fall off and ground thru the axels and trash the bearings. (don't ask how I know)
Take your time with the fitup, full contact, with a shallow bevel is the goal. (much easier said than done LOL) Make yout tacks small, no larger than .250". Hold the truss in place with light clamp pressure, you don't want to distort the tubes or the truss. If the tubes are not full welded to the formed center, now is a good time to do this, the cradle makes it easy to do this with a continous bead, just grind the factory welds down some, so you dont have to jump over them.
Make the tacks about 3 in. apart , start in the center of the housing, skip from center to end,end to end and top to bottom, the object is to counter the shrinkage of each tack (and stitch weld) with the next one shrinking / pulling in the opposite direction. Check the housing for straightness often with the square, it's much easier to catch any warp now, rather than after the whole thing is welded and almost impossible the straighten. Lay out your tack marks with soapstone or white marker, and number them in the sequence you are going to weld them, you will use the same sequence for the stitch welds. Grind all the tacks smooth (I use a 3 in. X 1/16" cutting wheel in a die grinder) and clean it all up. Mark out a 1 in. weld bead at each tack, 1/2 in. on each side of the tack. Keep the bead length uniform. (also MUCH easier said than done)
I usually weld in 3 or 4 sessions of about 20 min. each, letting the housing cool to ambient in between. Keep the housing temp. below 250 deg.F. It's really good to have a helper turn the housing for you and keep you in sequence, you're moving end to end and top to bottom constantly, and it's really easy to get lost.
On 4 X 4 stuff, I don't full weld, it's not necessary, especially if the customer is going to run "bolt on" top and bottom trusses. (anything over 33 in. tires or 400 HP) Just run a bead of paintable latex caulk, to seal it up, before paint to slow the rust down.
Now you have a better idea why a CURRIE is $1 K... Take your time and take pics. RED
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A 160 MPH drive, down a 2 lane blacktop, all by yourself, is NOT anti-social behaviour... I drag race because football, baseball, and golf only need ONE ball. Paul.


What I really need to know is, WHEN DOES THE SHOOTING START?
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:30 PM
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that sounds like some good info there.....thanks!
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