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  #11  
Old 09-02-2017, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
Yep, good eye. It's a HF. They used to carry a 110lb cast steel anvil that was around 100 bucks. I had to do a lot of work with a flap wheel to get it in usable shape, the horn especially. The rebound is nothing to write home about but it has served me very well for the price. If I had known they were going to quit carrying them I'd have bought 2 or 3 of them. Everything they have now appears to be cast iron and the local store doesn't have anything over maybe 45lbs.
Looks great.. You did a really nice job on it.. Do you like the hardy hole turned like that? I can see it having some advantages when cutting bars on a hardie as long as the bars aren't to heavy..
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2017, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfram View Post
Here's mine.

If you're right-handed like me, and use the anvil with the horn on the left, I suspect you'll prefer to have the splayed legs of the "tripod" on the left ... there's less likelihood of the legs interfering with the placement of your right foot, and anyway, IMHO you "need" more lateral/tilting/rocking stability in front of the horn than near the hardy hole where you're more concerned with strictly "twisting" stability, anyway...

YMMV
The "outrigger" on mine is 1 inch square bar, so the single tube leg actually has a slightly wider footprint than the double legs. The anvil can be positioned either direction and I may switch it and see which side I like better, have to break this thing in
I actually swap hands frequently depending on what I'm trying to do, don't really have a right or left handed preference. Sometimes I will switch which side of the anvil I stand on when I switch hands sometimes not. Really detailed stuff I favor my right hand but most things I can do with either. Oddly enough I prefer to hold the reins in my left hand when I'm on a horse.

I did spend a little time in the shop today and started hammering out a knife blade. I will give that its own thread once I get a little farther along. So far the stand works well.
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2017, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by allessence View Post
Looks great.. You did a really nice job on it.. Do you like the hardy hole turned like that? I can see it having some advantages when cutting bars on a hardie as long as the bars aren't to heavy..
To be honest I don't have a hardie (yet) and only have made a few tools that use the hardie hole. That's one of those things that seemed odd to me when I bought the anvil but ended up not really being an issue.
The only thing I have used very much on the hardie hole is I made a T shaped piece with round stock on top that I can use to draw out smaller sections like the stem of a leaf without making it long enough to go over the horn. I'm sure there is a name for that tool, but I can't think of it at the moment. Sort of like a guillotine without the top side.
I have made spurs, bridle racks, candle holders and stuff but the majority of my forge work has been geared towards bladesmithing rather than full on blacksmithing type work, so I haven't really built any tooling. If I need something I have improvised and told myself I would make the right tool later...and later hasn't happened yet for the most part
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2017, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
To be honest I don't have a hardie (yet) and only have made a few tools that use the hardie hole. That's one of those things that seemed odd to me when I bought the anvil but ended up not really being an issue.
The only thing I have used very much on the hardie hole is I made a T shaped piece with round stock on top that I can use to draw out smaller sections like the stem of a leaf without making it long enough to go over the horn. I'm sure there is a name for that tool, but I can't think of it at the moment. Sort of like a guillotine without the top side.
I have made spurs, bridle racks, candle holders and stuff but the majority of my forge work has been geared towards bladesmithing rather than full on blacksmithing type work, so I haven't really built any tooling. If I need something I have improvised and told myself I would make the right tool later...and later hasn't happened yet for the most part
fuller.. Bottom fuller actually.. If I were making a hardie I would still make it 90 to the face or in line.. this will give you the advantage or not having a face of the anvil in the way vs if you were to make it conventionally in line with the shank..

I get it and that looks like a mighty fine anvil.. If they still made that model I'd buy one..
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2017, 09:09 PM
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Fuller. That's the name. You must have done this before

I'm really amazed they sold this anvil for the price they did. The rebound isn't great and the face is soft enough you can ding it with a hammer if you hit it wrong, but whatever steel it is welds well with plain old MIG wire if you need to fill in anything. There was a couple spots on the horn I built up rather than trying to grind out and I can't even tell where they were now.

I'm sure you would want better for the work you do, but it would be the perfect thing to have students work on.

I have about an hour and a half of use on the anvil stand now and so far it has scratched the floor a little where I've drug it around but hasn't done any damage while hammering. I'm pretty happy with it so far.

I also made it lower than my old stand, so that my knuckles more or less rest on the anvil top when I let my arm hang. I'm finding it's much easier to hit squarely at this height and I'm starting to work faster.
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