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Old 08-14-2017, 05:34 PM
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Default my improvised home made anvil?

Hi all, since I don't have the financial wealth that some of you have, I decided to make a crude anvil. I've watch videos of people in third world countries using stone for their surface to pound on. I received the railroad Iron from a neighbor who secured an anvil, so he let me have the railroad Iron. initially it was staked to a tree stump, but the stump began to rot. so I went to the metal place and purchased some 1/4 thick round and square tubing and welded it to a brake rotor that I had laying around. Here's the pic.
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Old 08-14-2017, 05:44 PM
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Looks good. I'm glad you didn't cut half of the mass away trying to make it "look" like an anvil. Most of the railroad track anvils I've seen people make they start with 50lbs of rail and end up with a 15 lb anvil.

I'm a little worried your base won't keep it in one place well enough if you get to working over the edge of the anvil very much. I have a 110 lb cheap cast steel anvil and the wooden base I put it on has a lot bigger footprint than a brake rotor and it still dances around on me.
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
Looks good. I'm glad you didn't cut half of the mass away trying to make it "look" like an anvil. Most of the railroad track anvils I've seen people make they start with 50lbs of rail and end up with a 15 lb anvil.

I'm a little worried your base won't keep it in one place well enough if you get to working over the edge of the anvil very much. I have a 110 lb cheap cast steel anvil and the wooden base I put it on has a lot bigger footprint than a brake rotor and it still dances around on me.
Thanks, all of the stuff that I'll be working on will be hobby stuff. I'll see how it works. if it proves to be unstable. I can weigh it down with sand bags, or bury the base into the ground. the thing weighs about 80 lbs.
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Old 08-15-2017, 04:58 PM
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A couple bolts through the rotor to keep it from twisting would probably work too, although it looks like you're on pavers and not concrete. I have to drag my anvil out of the corner when I want to use it so I just chase it in circles for now
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Old 08-16-2017, 10:21 AM
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Looks great and I agree with Matt about not cutting any of it out to look like an anvil..

I would suggest that you fore go the brake rotor though.. If it were me and money was tight I'd start looking around for some pipe or I beam or something with some length to it to get a little wider stance..

If wood is free.. I might take a bunch of stumps or what have you and arrange them around the pipe and then clamp it together..

Ideally it should just be mounted as solidly as possible and so it's not walking around the shop with each hammer strike..
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:11 PM
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How about a brake drum off of an semi trailer for a base?
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:41 PM
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just find an old 20" truck rim and weld the rotor to the rim. Once thats done, fill the rim with concrete, works great and you can still roll it around if you need to position it.

I'll see if I can get a pic of the one I use. I took a Continental motor from an army truck apart, tipped it up on end, and I can flatten anything I want. Not to easy to move, but thats the best part imho. I got tired of stuff walking around while I was "mashing" it.
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:05 AM
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Thanks for all the suggestion. right now I have no space in my garage. so all my pounding will be outdoors. the only time I would use this would be when I light my forge up, which is outdoors also.
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Old 10-08-2017, 12:50 PM
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I have to agree with what was said about removing seeming un-needed material for aesthetics sake only.

While I do have one rail anvil in use that does have one end cut to fashion a type of horn, that is all that was removed on it.

Simple is most often the best for a great outcome.
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Old 10-08-2017, 03:08 PM
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made an upgrade on my anvil. bent a piece of re-bar and welded it to the end to hold my hammer. used a rotor from my F150. works like a charm
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Last edited by biker55; 10-08-2017 at 03:10 PM. Reason: forgot to add something
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