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  #31  
Old 10-11-2017, 10:46 AM
KevinF KevinF is offline
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1 - A holder for the press brake punch die. I bought 3 ft of punch and 5 way die and cut it down to 32" for the 55t press. The material is the hex end of a torsion bar. It machined nicely with carbide but my crappy taps said no way to tapping some set screws in for the punch die.

The rest are auction grabs. A ton of garbage tooling. Some of it is broken. Some of it appears to have had a 2 year old take an angle grinder to it. Some of it is tapered shaft and I don't know what it would fit. Some of it has exterior fine thread on the top. There are a few end mills that can be salvaged and sharpened and they will pretty much make it worth the price of admission. The pallet of shafting material ranges from 2 7/16 to over 3 inch, maybe 3.5. Paid $50 for that pallet. Paid 40 for the faceplate and 4 jaw. The box of jaws doesn't contain any that fit the 4 jaw. The 8 inch USA made vise is nice but I think the screw is bent. The large end mill on the left came with other tooling but will be good to put on the shelf as a novelty item.

My friend picked up a handyman cnc mill with the CNC part not working at the same auction.
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  #32  
Old 10-11-2017, 11:34 AM
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camdigger camdigger is offline
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Kevin, if the screw on that vise is bent, I would recommend watching some of Kieth Fenner's YouTube videos on straghtening. He did one on straightening a lead screw that is quite good. He also makes up some rollers for testing straightness that make figuring out just where to apply the press a bit easier.
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  #33  
Old 10-12-2017, 10:36 AM
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Ironman Ironman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinF View Post
The vise looks good. The brand is HFS.

Got a quill indicator holder and a cheapy half thou indicator. Looks like its about .003 out of tram across the vise. Will get that dealt with in time.

Now I just need a project!
Kevin, some thoughts and suggestions:
I have the same vice. I would take the swivel off and toss it. You are much more rigid without it and if you want it as a dust collector, feel free, I just threw mine out after 7 years of non-use.

Bubba's suggestion of going through your vice is a good one. I have a 4 just like yours, and a 6". The 6" was very cheap and I always thought it was lower quality because of that. I took the 4 apart and did the stuff on the video. It was really primitive in the half ball and slide part, and I corrected that. Without smooth functioning of these parts you do not get the proper pulldown of the movable jaw.

I then did the 6" one. It was much better quality in the fit and finish where it counts, but the thrust bearing in both cases is crap, and buying a new one from a bearing supply is the real answer. About 7 bucks.

Also you should chop off the handle of the vice so it does not hit the ways and loosen the vise when you are power feeding. Needs about 1.5 chopped off and re-attach the ball.

I made the mistake years back with my first vise being way too big. Anything bigger than a 6 inch can handle, can be clamped to the T slots.
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Last edited by Ironman; 10-12-2017 at 10:42 AM.
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  #34  
Old 10-17-2017, 09:52 AM
KevinF KevinF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camdigger View Post
Kevin, if the screw on that vise is bent, I would recommend watching some of Kieth Fenner's YouTube videos on straghtening. He did one on straightening a lead screw that is quite good. He also makes up some rollers for testing straightness that make figuring out just where to apply the press a bit easier.
Thanks I'll check it out when I get some time. Supposed to be doing a job in Ontario next week so I'll have some time in the evenings for that sort of leisure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
if you want it as a dust collector, feel free, I just threw mine out after 7 years of non-use.

OK I'll put it in my calendar for 2024 to scrap the swivel base.


loosen the vise when you are power feeding.
Can you explain this?

Tore into the little vise to have a look last night.

1 - the threads on the collar are absolutely awful and crude.
2,3,4 - The movable jaw parts. I've seen worse on chi vise teardowns but I cleaned up the on surface with a file.
5 - You can see the bearing surface on the lead screw is actually big enough for the thrust bearing. What you can't see is they installed one of the washers/races backwards. The threads on the lead screw itself are terrible. Really chattery and sharp. I think I will try to run it through a die or at least sand off the peaks.
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  #35  
Old 10-17-2017, 10:01 AM
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In picture 2, I was surprised to see there is no 1/2 ball. They have a cast in button where there should be a socket and a half of a ball bearing in there. This is supposed to allow swiveling and auto alignment but I see you cleaned up the surfaces well. This is needed so they slide. grease is good there too.

As for shortening the handle, check out the vise with the handle hanging down, and move it past the Y slide. If the handle can touch the slide below it can catch and move it. This has resulted in loose work for me and a busted cutter. In theory, you are supposed to remove the handle and set it down so it can roll off and land on the floor, but many people leave the handle on the vise while milling.
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  #36  
Old 10-17-2017, 10:19 AM
KevinF KevinF is offline
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Other questions

Is the backside of this faceplate made to hook into a lathe spindle? Just curious what its original home would have looked like/how it would work. I might clamp it to the table so I can use my hold down set a little further out than the little table permits (vise doesn't open to 6" either).

What are these inserts? I thought they would be M (86 degree diamond) since that what it says on the face but I think I am wrong. I am missing one of those little machine screws.


Last is the Handyman Mill my friend picked up from the Auction. The CNC is not working. Its 3 phase 220/440. It has y travel on the table and on the head. Has a turret also. Hopefully it will end up a good buy once he gets a VFD figured out.
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Last edited by KevinF; 10-17-2017 at 11:41 AM.
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  #37  
Old 10-17-2017, 11:06 AM
KevinF KevinF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
As for shortening the handle, check out the vise with the handle hanging down, and move it past the Y slide. If the handle can touch the slide below it can catch and move it. This has resulted in loose work for me and a busted cutter. In theory, you are supposed to remove the handle and set it down so it can roll off and land on the floor, but many people leave the handle on the vise while milling.

I get ya. This handle is so loose fitting it falls off on its own. Probably by design... for safety...
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  #38  
Old 10-17-2017, 11:49 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinF View Post
Other questions

Is the backside of this faceplate made to hook into a lathe spindle?
Search the web for camlock lathe spindle.
Type D1 camlock

http://www.victornet.com/reference/Lathe_Chuck.html
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Last edited by GWIZ; 10-17-2017 at 11:59 AM.
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  #39  
Old 10-17-2017, 11:57 AM
KevinF KevinF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinF View Post
What are these inserts?
Searching leads me to believe APMT or APKT.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10pcs-APMT113...cAAOSwhcJWP1Mb
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  #40  
Old 10-18-2017, 05:43 PM
AussieTom AussieTom is offline
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Ive got 16 and 20mm insert endmils that use those shape inserts. I can measure them and give you the code when i get home if you like.

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