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  #21  
Old 03-29-2005, 11:25 AM
Franz Franz is offline
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AND, when Cutter gets the Wilton open, he can go to this site and learn how to make new jaws for it.
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Mach...iltonjaws.html
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  #22  
Old 03-29-2005, 11:38 AM
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AND, when Cutter gets the Wilton open, he can go to this site and learn how to make new jaws for it.
You know what? I've been dreading that.
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  #23  
Old 03-29-2005, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franz
AND, when Cutter gets the Wilton open, he can go to this site and learn how to make new jaws for it.
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Mach...iltonjaws.html
I wonder if he painted his thumb nail or is the nail paint is waering off??????????
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  #24  
Old 03-29-2005, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 7018
I wonder if he painted his thumb nail or is the nail paint is waering off??????????
Not real sure what the deal on the thumbnail is, but if you back the site up to his main page, the guy is a guitar maker, and repairer of stringed instruments. For people who can tolerate wood, he has a lot of great information.
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  #25  
Old 03-29-2005, 10:12 PM
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Jeff Jeff is offline
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Cutter,
You have probably already done this, but did you try bolting it down, applying pressure to jaw, and heating the dog s**t out of the barrel?
Jeff

Last edited by Jeff; 03-29-2005 at 10:13 PM. Reason: misspell......yet again
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  #26  
Old 03-29-2005, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff
Cutter,
You have probably already done this, but did you try bolting it down, applying pressure to jaw, and heating the dog s**t out of the barrel?
Jeff
Did you make it to page 15?
http://www.cutterod.com/vise_saga_15.htm
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  #27  
Old 03-29-2005, 11:54 PM
Don_S Don_S is offline
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Cutter,

If I remember correctly the vise has a hole clear through the middle so this probably wouldn't work unless you could seal the center. I had a person tell me the best way he found to unstick rusted in cast iron pistons in an old tractor was to fill the cylinders with diesel and light it up. This is on an old JD two cylinder block removed from the tractor and set up on end. The burning diesel at the top of the pool heats things up while the diesel on the bottom of the pool is tenaciously trying to work it's way between the piston and block.

Don
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  #28  
Old 03-30-2005, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cutter
To tell the truth River, I had read about using molasses last year but I just didn't want to go buy 5 gallons of it & then have to clean up that mess too. As far as surface rust goes, I just about had that whipped & I couldn't bring myself to believe molasses would penetrate the close tolerances involved inside the old vise.
i don't know about the penetration part but to clean up the mess just pour it in your garden works great as fertilizer.

later jim
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  #29  
Old 03-30-2005, 12:38 AM
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The burning diesel at the top of the pool heats things up while the diesel on the bottom of the pool is tenaciously trying to work it's way between the piston and block.

Don
That is an interesting idea, Don. But of course you're right, there is a 2 inch hole (app.) plumb through her to the front jaw then it closes down to about 1 1/8th in. The 3 collar screws are tapped all the way though into that cavity as well.

But hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm . . . . . . .
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  #30  
Old 03-30-2005, 09:26 AM
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Hi Cutter just read the vise (vice) saga, got to admire your perseverance.

Don't know if this is any help but......

I regularly clean rust, burnt on oil, other crud, by putting a 75% Glycol/25% water mix (antifreeze) in a crock pot.

Put the offending bits in the pot and set heat to full for 2 hours, turn down to low heat and leave for loooong time (week).

All bits come out clean. Siezed up items come unsiezed (is that a word).

Used this method on a cylinder (cast iron) and stuck piston. They came apart easy. The piston rigs had rusted to the cylinder bore.

As Franz is the expert on all things divine and chemical maybe he could shed more light on the validity of this process.


Regards Frank
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