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  #111  
Old 07-01-2016, 07:25 PM
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I'm not Don, but concrete properly screeded right after placing the concrete and floated properly will settle the aggregate slightly below the surface and eliminate the air pockets I see.

One thing that confuses me is when you say you wanted a finish that was not slippery when wet but able to broom sweep the floor. To be able to sweep the floor and get all the dirt and dust you have to have a very smooth floor, not rough looking like you have. Maybe I just don't understand your terminology.
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  #112  
Old 07-01-2016, 10:26 PM
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Dave when you say it like that it leaves it wide open for interpretation. I'd say you were looking for a broom finish and they did a Ray Charles. They are plenty high on charging because there is only 4 pieces of rebar total in the slab, the finish should be exactly what you want.

You were there when they did my floor. Here's how it came out and it's not a bit slick. It's the minimum of finish I'd want on any floor. They waited a bit too long to get the power trowel on it after reading Dons wonderful write up. It's fine and it works but I know more now. there's some oil stains already from working on Fords......

You had better get a couple sections cut and tested for minimum psi. If it's at least worthy of a building THEN worry about finish. There isn't a man on the planet that has X-ray vision they can't tell by looking. I wouldn't trust that fucker any further than I could throw him if he turns out work like that. Right now is the time to find out its shit, not when there's a shed on it.

I'm real curious how that slab is gonna work in your climate. Isn't the frost going to get under it and heave it?
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  #113  
Old 07-01-2016, 11:22 PM
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Dump some sand and dirt on a spot, then get a broom. See how easy it is to clean with a broom. Videotape the process for court.

Also consider small claims, but not till you are absolutely sure that the contractor is going to make you happy. I think the bug holes might be enough to convince a court. Just think about how many nuts a small parts you are going to have rescue from them.

If it comes to court, see if you can get one of the other local contractors to testify on your behalf. That is if you can find one that doesn't proclaim to know how strong concrete is by looking at it. And get the core tests. If you have a local test lab, they might know of a quality contractor.

This is not a hot coffee spill in your lap. If you let them skate on a bad job, they will keep doing bad jobs, and screw the next guy also. If they are upstanding, you won't need to threaten court.
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  #114  
Old 07-01-2016, 11:34 PM
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Sam and some others brought up court. I don't know the ins and outs of what the contractor is but I saw one fifteen year old pickup and rented tools in the video. Get all the lawyers you want, sue all you want, most you might end up with is a fifteen year old Chevy. The "business" will be broke, will close and the "CEO" will start a new business by weeks end by the looks and vibe I get from it.

Stay calm, stay cool and stay talking. Don't rule out a lawyer just be cautious.
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  #115  
Old 07-02-2016, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weldor2005 View Post
Just realized I missed about a whole page of Don's posts there...

Don, If I were to get this cored and tested, do the people who drill the core repair the holes that they take out?
No, they will simply take the samples. You would have to get it fixed after. Not a big deal, but it will look like a repaired spot. If you do it, try to do it in a hidden spot, closet, etc or under a wall or the like. Hides the repairs better that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by weldor2005 View Post
Don,

From your posts would you say this is aggregate that didn't get stamped down? Not that this effects much other than uniformity?

Sent using Stupid Fone

The agg is on the surface which means it wasn't pushed down at all. It can give you a spall point later,.... but as long as its not sticking up, its just ugly and done incorrectly. One of the other pics you posted still had shrinkage dimples on it. Means it wasn't floated properly at all. There should be at least 3 machine hits, too....4 is better.

Also, with fiber, one has to jitterbug or tamp the surface. It will knock the rocks down and help consolidate it better and it also knocks the fiber sub surface so it won't be so ugly later. From the vid I see that didn't happen.
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  #116  
Old 07-08-2016, 08:40 AM
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David, any updates?
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  #117  
Old 07-08-2016, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
David, any updates?
I typed up a letter and emailed it to him today explaining my situation/concerns on the workmanship of the surface finish not meeting my expectations, and offered to call it settled if I pay nothing more than I already had for the cost of materials. This would mean no profit/pay for the lack of skill in the finish, and that he would have to pay out of pocket the labor he hired to push/pull it. I asked him to let me know if that is acceptable to him or not.

I will share my bullet pointed reasons...

• None of the edges of the concrete were formed with a radius trowel, and can lead to premature chipping and cracking.
• The power trowel marks that are in it in some areas are beyond visual and hold pools of water from not having an even surface.
• The pitting that I see in the surface identified as “fliers” from Marinette Concrete General Manager, could have been mitigated had they been identified while troweling.
• The surface finish at the edges where I will place my sill bottom plate was not troweled, causing a rough surface and potential complications in setting square and plumb walls.

He has been good at communication and I'm sure I will have a response tonight...


Is the surface Ideal...NO, but if I try to think about the value add to the property, had I seen a ready to build on pad when I bought the place, would I have paid another $2,000. Probably. So If I get it at half off for this not what I expected surface finish, then so be it, and no lawyers!
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  #118  
Old 07-08-2016, 11:27 AM
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Sounds like you are content with your choice. After all, it is your shop, not ours. You may want to consider using the epoxy garage floor coatings. It would smooth out the floor somewhat and seal the surface holes.
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  #119  
Old 07-08-2016, 11:46 AM
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Can't comment on much of that, except in this area the norm is to radius the edges only where there will be overhead doors. (Basically direct traffic over the exposed edge.)

Man doors usually have a sill plate, so don't need the radius edge.

Also here it's common to run 1-3 courses of block, then frame on top of that, to prevent moisture/water contact with the sills of the framed walls.

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  #120  
Old 07-08-2016, 05:45 PM
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Dave, this is the wife's garage for the house right? Not your main shop? Just to park the vehicles inside. And don't forget the wall anchors not high enough. Brian
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