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  #31  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:16 AM
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The butt cramps where your wallet is will hit pretty soon too!

Brian
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  #32  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:36 AM
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The butt cramps where your wallet is will hit pretty soon too!

Brian
I won't miss that money until I run out of money trying to build the barn.
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  #33  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:00 AM
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There is something to be said for stick built. I don't know the difference in construction costs.

I totally believe in insulation. Heat is an ongoing enjoyment and also a cost in money and time. I am of the opinion that shops should be at the level of residential construction for your area. The residential spec reflects the cost / benefit for your climate. You say you are going to heat with wood. With poor insulation you will have to spend a certain amount of time to cut, split etc. With good insulation you might only require half that amount, for example. My business partner used to ask me 'what is the highest and best use of my time'. I'd be doing janitorial work and he's say I could do what I do best for 4 hours and pay for somebody to that work for a month or two. With all the saved time you coulld go shooting at the targets that you make even more.

I had mentioned the windows at the eaves. The new UV coated Lexan has partially solved the yellowing problems. They may not be a good idea is there is the possibility of eventually heating the space.

The other thing you mentioned was solar. My son did a return calc on retrofitting our house probably 5 years ago. The payback was 4.6 years. I never did it because I didn't want to spend the money at the time. I would however check the price of having the trusses built for solar. Instead of the peak being in the middle of the building have it to one side so the face of the rook is at whatever the correct angle is for solar at your location. I have no idea what the incremental cost might be. I'd also orient the building for possible future solar. A small amount of planning might be useful in the future.
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  #34  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:22 AM
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There is something to be said for stick built. I don't know the difference in construction costs.

I totally believe in insulation. Heat is an ongoing enjoyment and also a cost in money and time. I am of the opinion that shops should be at the level of residential construction for your area. The residential spec reflects the cost / benefit for your climate. You say you are going to heat with wood. With poor insulation you will have to spend a certain amount of time to cut, split etc. With good insulation you might only require half that amount, for example. My business partner used to ask me 'what is the highest and best use of my time'. I'd be doing janitorial work and he's say I could do what I do best for 4 hours and pay for somebody to that work for a month or two. With all the saved time you coulld go shooting at the targets that you make even more.

I had mentioned the windows at the eaves. The new UV coated Lexan has partially solved the yellowing problems. They may not be a good idea is there is the possibility of eventually heating the space.

The other thing you mentioned was solar. My son did a return calc on retrofitting our house probably 5 years ago. The payback was 4.6 years. I never did it because I didn't want to spend the money at the time. I would however check the price of having the trusses built for solar. Instead of the peak being in the middle of the building have it to one side so the face of the rook is at whatever the correct angle is for solar at your location. I have no idea what the incremental cost might be. I'd also orient the building for possible future solar. A small amount of planning might be useful in the future.
Yes, my plans are that one of the roof sides would be southern facing. Really I know that with all my toys I will never break even on Solar, but with new LED and everything lighting I feel I should at least have free light after ROI of equipment.

Bought enough 60W equivalents for the house, came to about $35 and will see how nice that may or may not be.
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  #35  
Old 04-25-2016, 07:24 PM
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Let's see if these pictures paint a picture that isn't side ways.

First one, we see the pic on the left, that is septic tank, and limiting factor in the northern direction. Behind trailer is a tree that has current second service, that is limiting east direction ( shortly behind that is property line). To the south there is some shrubbery that could be leveled, but would prefer not.

The tarp is covering existing water source. It can be shortened as needed to fit in building wall as I see fit.

Other picture down drive way shows grass through the woods, I could use this area, but would prefer not to stray from second electrical service.

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  #36  
Old 04-26-2016, 04:56 PM
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So, some more pictures.

I notice the second electrical service is in ground and appears to be coming from said transformer. Guess I never wondered before, but this appears the transformer is fed from one high voltage phase, and then you take the two poles from that? Is this right?

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  #37  
Old 04-26-2016, 09:18 PM
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Yes, it's the 240v to the meter.
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  #38  
Old 05-01-2016, 04:42 PM
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Well then... Once we get this straightened out....

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  #39  
Old 05-01-2016, 11:17 PM
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The single high voltage wire is called SWER, Single Wire Earth Return.
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  #40  
Old 05-07-2016, 10:26 AM
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Alright moved in... Kind of.. Here is the general idea. It is 36 x 48 now. My neighbors barn is 12' wall. I'm still on the fence as to if I want 12' or 16'. Only thought on a need for 16' is loss of a couple feet in rigging if I ever put a hoist in this thing for full coverage other than my HF gantry.

Time to see what head work will run me.

Now to work on the stubborn lawn tractor and try and take away the ticks long grass.

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