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  #21  
Old 01-03-2009, 10:22 AM
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greywynd greywynd is offline
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Most of the TO-20's here have 4 cylinder gas continental engines, at least all I've seen or worked on. They are getting harder to get some parts for, which is a part of the reason their resale isn't as high in most areas as the Fords. At the same time, most people that have knowledge, greatly prefer the 8N over the 9N or 2N, so again, the resale on them is often slightly higher too.

Even though the rear ends, trannies etc all look very similar, there is very little part interchangeability. With the Fergusons, there were some improvements made over the early N-series, similar to what was done with the upgrade from the 2N to the 8N.

The front mounted distributors on the N series were okay, but are prone to cracked caps, and are difficult to access. Occasionally someone will force them on with the shaft out half a turn (there is an offset tang on the distributor shaft, with a matching offset slot on the end of the camshaft to drive it.) Of course this makes for interesting running (if at all) tractor that everyone wonders what is wrong with. The other issue is that often wires will be put on wrong, either the order mixed up, or the direction. Again, they'll usually run, but poorly and lacking in power.

Anyone wants more 'N' series history, just ask.

Myself, I have a Ford model 540....anyone want to take a stab at what that is??
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2009, 10:26 AM
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Ford 540 is one of the industrial style ones isnt it?
Kinda like the yellow MFs.
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  #23  
Old 02-16-2009, 06:01 AM
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Been doing some small jobs to this,

I'm not bothered about originality, just functionality.

1) The lift arms were in bits so i splashed out on new ones and some pins and bits


2) The original battery wiring was practically non-existant. the negative battery clamp was a vise grips (not supplied) So I ran new 40mm2 cables up to the starter, makes a big difference but Im still not happy. I got a new battery for it but it seems to hold feck all charge, I get two or three starts out of it, and the tractor starts in about 10 seconds. Id try and take it back but I'm not sure they'll be too impressed with the chunk I blew out of the terminal when I hooked jump leads up the wrong way round....




3) The front tyres were in a pretty poor state, and one of the tubes was wrecked too, the rims were shot as well, one of em had no lip on it and both of em had corrosion around the valve holes twice the size of the original hole (which is what had destroyed the tube) So i replaced the lot, not the correct original size admittedly but a whole lot cheaper. 2 wheels, tubes and tyres for €145 ($187) all in.





Went to actually try and do some work with it yesterday but the damm lift arms are stuck in the raised position. could be dirty oil (it's manky ancient gear oil mayonaise) or a stuck control valve seemingly. So i need to drain the back end, open the inspection plate and give it a wash with some diesel and then refill it with 60 or 70 euros worth of oil and cross everything.
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  #24  
Old 02-16-2009, 07:55 AM
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moe1942 moe1942 is offline
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Johnboy the patina is as good as Loosianer patina..
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  #25  
Old 02-16-2009, 08:03 AM
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I have no idea what that means moe,


Thank you, I think....
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  #26  
Old 02-16-2009, 08:18 AM
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"could be dirty oil (it's manky ancient gear oil mayonaise) "
and
"need to drain the back end, open the inspection plate and give it a wash with some diesel"

Ya know, john, don't doo that on your new concrete pad
that it's sitting on in the pix...never get that stain out.
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  #27  
Old 02-16-2009, 08:21 AM
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moe1942 moe1942 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy View Post
I have no idea what that means moe,


Thank you, I think....


The color on the unpainted metal...
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  #28  
Old 02-16-2009, 01:08 PM
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Looking good, John.
I love that old cast iron seat.
Good luck on your repair.
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  #29  
Old 02-16-2009, 01:37 PM
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Harvuskong Harvuskong is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy View Post
Been doing some small jobs to this,

Went to actually try and do some work with it yesterday but the damm lift arms are stuck in the raised position. could be dirty oil (it's manky ancient gear oil mayonaise) or a stuck control valve seemingly. So i need to drain the back end, open the inspection plate and give it a wash with some diesel and then refill it with 60 or 70 euros worth of oil and cross everything.
Isn't there a draft control lever on the thing?? Could be set to be too light a draft setting.

It has been a very long time since I actually drove one of those things, but there might also be a postion lock lever there also.

I suspect that the replacement lube in the back end is supposed to be Hyd. oil, not 80/90 wt.

The valve body, I think, is part of the diff. cover that is right under the seat.

Search engine check might turn up some Ferguson/Ford forums with a lot of information available.

Found this one - http://www.fergusonenthusiasts.com/

They got a pdf dealing with lift arms stuck in up postion - and other problems as well.
http://www.fergusonenthusiasts.com/r...20Position.pdf

PDF text - LIFT ARMS STUCK IN UP POSITION
By Dean Austin
Ferguson TE/TO-20/TO-30
When the lift arm is stuck in the up position on these models, the problem could be caused by stuck control valve or broken linkage. The control has a small pin between valve and the linkage which could be broken. Sometimes the linkage can come loose from the valve. You can check those things by draining the oil down below the bottom bolt hole of the access plate on the side with the dipstick. Remove the access plate. Move the quadrant lever while feeling down on the back side of the pump near the bottom to see if the linkage is connected to the control valve and moving the valve in and out. There is a spring connected to the linkage near the top. If it comes unhooked or breaks, the linkage will not move the control valve. If the valve is just hung you may be able to free it my moving the valve in and out.


Ferguson TE/TO-35, F-40, MH 50, MF 35/50/65

These models have a different hydraulic control. Some came without a filter so It is not uncommon for a small piece of trash to get in the control valve and cause it to stick. To check that, drain the oil down below the bottom bolt hole of the access plate on the side with the dipstick. Remove the access plate. Move the quadrant levers to be sure the linkage is moving the vertical levers which hang down from the lift cover. There are two small levers coming up from the pump with a roller between them. With the pump turning, reach in and push the small levers towards the back of the tractor as far as they will move. Then release them, That will usually free the control valve.
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Last edited by Harvuskong; 02-16-2009 at 01:49 PM.
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  #30  
Old 02-16-2009, 01:57 PM
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Harvuskong Harvuskong is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy View Post
2) The original battery wiring was practically non-existant. the negative battery clamp was a vise grips (not supplied) So I ran new 40mm2 cables up to the starter, makes a big difference but Im still not happy. I got a new battery for it but it seems to hold feck all charge, I get two or three starts out of it, and the tractor starts in about 10 seconds. Id try and take it back but I'm not sure they'll be too impressed with the chunk I blew out of the terminal when I hooked jump leads up the wrong way round....

.
There are wiring diagram pdfs to downloaded on the bottom half of the the Ferguson Enthusiasts's Restoration Helps page

The link below is the Restoration Helps page of the Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America:

http://www.fergusonenthusiasts.com/r...on%20helps.htm
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Appeasement is the coward's way into one.


Barack Hussein Obama is our enemies favorite candidate


In time the right project will find the scrap pile, no need for the scrap pile to go out looking for a project.

http://www.swiftvets.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24981

http://tosettherecordstraight.com/index.php
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