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  #11  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:48 AM
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midmosandblasting midmosandblasting is offline
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You will wonder why I am saying this as you don't do wreck rebuild but put some pots in floor. we always want to tweek something straight as or after fab. Besides that new mill may need drug around .
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by weldor2005 View Post
...No insulation or water lines in this one, my plan is to segregate a 18x36 portion off and insulate and heat with wood stove some day. The rest is left cold...
This I don't understand. There's no way in Hell that I would go to all the trouble and expense of putting up a shop and then not bother to heat it. I wouldn't do it here where we have a mild climate, let alone back there where you get real winter.

I've spent enough time working in cold damp environments to know that the alternative is much better--there's nothing like cold steel and frozen fingers to turn a simple project into an ordeal. I like my creature comforts--must be an old guy vs. young guy thing. I was young and dumb once...........well, I was young anyway...
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:35 PM
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...I like my creature comforts--must be an old guy vs. young guy thing. I was young and dumb once...........well, I was young anyway...
Keith,

Finchy has never been accused of being real sharp...




Finchy,

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  #14  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:05 PM
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weldor2005 weldor2005 is offline
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
This I don't understand. There's no way in Hell that I would go to all the trouble and expense of putting up a shop and then not bother to heat it. I wouldn't do it here where we have a mild climate, let alone back there where you get real winter.

I've spent enough time working in cold damp environments to know that the alternative is much better--there's nothing like cold steel and frozen fingers to turn a simple project into an ordeal. I like my creature comforts--must be an old guy vs. young guy thing. I was young and dumb once...........well, I was young anyway...
I'm dumb, but to keep heating efforts down, my thought is that I will partition the shop from 36x54 to 36x18 (Second pole) and frame and insulate that section with an interior overhead door for heating. Then for things that don't matter, like my plasma table or steel storage or something else, I can get it done in the cold, and then drive it through into the smaller heated section to do any finer drilling milling or turning or whatever need be in there.

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Keith,

Finchy has never been accused of being real sharp...


Finchy,

We love you!!!

If calling me Finchey, I prefer it to be spelled with an e before y.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2016, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by midmosandblasting View Post
You will wonder why I am saying this as you don't do wreck rebuild but put some pots in floor. we always want to tweek something straight as or after fab. Besides that new mill may need drug around .
Or I heard of one guy (I think competition company in town) that poured two IBeams in the floor so he had a continuous strip that he could weld fixtures or whatever to the floor as he needed. But I agree, something to tie down to be floor is nice. We have a couple in our shop at work and they have come in handy at times. I would also consider in floor heat. If your part time gig ever becomes full time job in the future, you will be regretting not being able to heat the floor. At least I know I regretted not putting heat pipe in my pole barn floor when I built it. Got in a hurry and didn't want to spent the extra $$ at the time.

Brian
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  #16  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:24 PM
JBFab JBFab is offline
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I agree on having some embeds in the floor, I can hook you up with them.

4 or 6 inch...I would love 6 when I build but understand the cost. I'd end up talking myself into six. But then I know that I'll eventually have equipment with heavy wheel loads in and out for repairs. If you don't see yourself working on that crap go for four with fiber and a number 4 mat 12 on 12. 2 number 5s around the perimeter in the grade beam.

I'm going to join the guys in slapping you if you bury the posts - enough said .

Put the pex in the floor, all of it. Zone it if you want and leave the big section capped off, but put it in now!

Menards buildings are OK, but they are just OK. Check into Pinno or Cleary or Morton. It's quality stuff, but it comes at a cost. An option that I've looked into and will probably go with is a miracle truss building. Check out their website for pictures and ideas, then go to Adams truss out of Arkansas for reasonable pricing. You could host the northern SFT party, rent a skytrak and we'll have it up in a weekend.
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  #17  
Old 04-23-2016, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JBFab View Post
I agree on having some embeds in the floor, I can hook you up with them.

4 or 6 inch...I would love 6 when I build but understand the cost. I'd end up talking myself into six. But then I know that I'll eventually have equipment with heavy wheel loads in and out for repairs. If you don't see yourself working on that crap go for four with fiber and a number 4 mat 12 on 12. 2 number 5s around the perimeter in the grade beam.

I'm going to join the guys in slapping you if you bury the posts - enough said .

Put the pex in the floor, all of it. Zone it if you want and leave the big section capped off, but put it in now!

Menards buildings are OK, but they are just OK. Check into Pinno or Cleary or Morton. It's quality stuff, but it comes at a cost. An option that I've looked into and will probably go with is a miracle truss building. Check out their website for pictures and ideas, then go to Adams truss out of Arkansas for reasonable pricing. You could host the northern SFT party, rent a skytrak and we'll have it up in a weekend.
I will have to see how much it costs to insulate and run pex, but I don't ever really want a boiler anywise...

If I knew I had enough capable people to come knock this out in a couple weeks for the fact of great friendship and having fun, I would go that route, but since I figure it would be me most of the time, I err on the side of paying it to be done since it would take me all year by myself.

And its not that I don't have those friends, they just might be too far away and I wouldn't want to ask for scheduling efforts.
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2016, 09:33 AM
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Dave you may never set a boiler or even uncoil the pex to hook anything to it but it's cheap now and the resell value is immeasurable. They now have foam that looks like Legos on top and you just press the pex in with your foot. None of that silly ass stapler like on my pour, poor or placement.

I haven't even seen a Menards building but if they are like anything else they sell or be suspect of every damn thing in the package. I once bought a framing square at menards that wasnt square. last straw was when I bought $1,200 worth of lumber and the wife and I had to load ALL of it ourselves. Just very poor customer service IMO.



Quit dragging your feet. When's the gtg? I'll bring the grill.



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  #19  
Old 04-23-2016, 11:51 AM
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My dad and I built a 30'x40' pole barn about 23 years ago. (One of these years I will get around to finishing the siding in it lol) We had our neighbor pour the floor first, I think either 4 or 5" with only fiber mesh in it, no rebar. The only cracks in it to this day are the control joints he put into it. We also put in a pipe for a truck crane we had, but it was only it it for a short while. I have my tire machine mounted over that section now. I regret we did not put pex in. Also, then we put the posts on the outside of the floor, so water can run off any edge. And there are no cracks radiating out from the posts. I would consider mounting the posts on top of the floor, or go with studded walls. Having the floor first was nice for the construction process, except that it attracted a lot of tools quickly.

Brian
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  #20  
Old 04-23-2016, 02:42 PM
JBFab JBFab is offline
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Quit dragging your feet. When's the gtg? I'll bring the grill.



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There ya go! That's two!
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