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  #11  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RancherBill View Post
Generally, CSA is equivalent or more stringent than UL. So yes any mod voids the rating. I am also sure Gerry did it safely. He lives in a no inspection zone.

It is a neat idea to have a separate power supply. Am I correct in assuming you can just put in the PS at the panel and turn the whole circuit into 48 v and then use lower cost bulbs (PS-less). I would imagine a separate PS is much more reliable than an in-bulb PS. On a larger job there'd be a big cost saving and reliability increase.
Some leds will say 110-277 volt AC and 12 volt DC
That means the switching power supply will pass through the correct voltage, and chop the AC to get the correct voltage. I can see no reason to go to a dc circuit as AC is perfectly safe and easier on switches than dc.

In the event you were off grid, however, it would be an important thing to know as solar or whatever generally gets stored as dc, and could be usable as is with those bulbs.

And as far as CSA goes my comment is DILLIGAF. It is safely done to good electrical practice. I could peel off the label certifying it good for a 1000 watt Merc bulb, but I would rather annoy those with tight panties.
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2016, 04:36 PM
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So, what is you return on investment going to be?
At a 800 watt saving x number of on hours how long will it take to equal what you paid?
I am being blamed as the main power consumer by the wifey. I will have to see what the bill says in a couple months. Our power costs are 16 cents a kwh, more expensive in Alberta then in the Northwest Territories. Anything to reduce it will have an effect. Cost of these was a buck a watt with USD exchange rate and DHL included, so I am forcasting that it will be paid out in a 12 month period.

It is more than an 800 watt saving. I have 2300 watts of florescents that can now stay off when I am welding. I had to run the florescent banks before as the mercs fouled up the auto dark helmet and randomly triggered it.
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

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  #13  
Old 04-29-2016, 08:13 PM
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I replaced four of my 8' fluorescent tubes with the LEDs. I pulled the ballasts and the run on 120vac. Quick start up and much brighter. It was about $129 for four bulbs shipped. It only makes sense to do it if you need to replace bulbs and ballasts, or you need more light and don't want to add fixtures. They are directional, so I was also able to point each bulb in a two bulb fixture off to the side a little to bring more light to the sides of the shop. Not sure what the payback time is. It would likely a hundred years for me, as I have a stack of ballasts and fluorescent tubes on hand. I wanted to try them for more light and quick starts in the cold.
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:15 PM
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My ROI is in more light, less energy, instant on, they work in the cold and last longer.

There's more to it than just any savings in energy use. Gotta count how often you have to replace the bulbs too and value of functionality.
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  #15  
Old 04-29-2016, 09:54 PM
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I wanted to try them for more light and quick starts in the cold.
Thanks for the chuckle Andy. "Cold" in Arizona?? I remember it got down to about forty and was Eighty by 10:00a.m. one time visiting my brother.

Brian
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  #16  
Old 04-29-2016, 10:34 PM
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They do look pretty bright. I feel better about my bill now, as mine is billed at $.12 a kwh.
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Last edited by milomilo; 04-30-2016 at 01:27 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2016, 08:15 AM
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Many people claim to have cheap power, Chris. They don't. You are about right on real charges.

We have a electrical contract guaranteeing the rates. It is all lies. They actually will give us the power for free if we take their natural gas, and we don't.
The way you get the true cost is to put the bottom line"you pay this" into your calculator, then divide by your kilowatts.
That is your true electric cost.
My monthly bill at 6.5 cent electricity is $277 in winter, divided by 1750 kw.
Line maintenance charges, GST, line re-newal charges, delivery charges, meter reading charges, etc, are all part of electricity costs. We are even charged for lines the power co. is building to ship power to the US.

These are taxes on us by a unofficial tax agency, and they claim that more competition is needed to lower the cost. They are already willing to give it to us for free, because they have downloaded all the business cost on us.

My average electric consumption cost is $80 for 2 months.(because I'm gone all winter) All the rest is bullshit charges. If I save 50% that is $40x6 which is how I get my year payback cost.
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

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  #18  
Old 04-30-2016, 08:38 AM
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Do you guys have this many add-ons to your bill? I'm sure some of you pay more per KW than I do.
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  #19  
Old 04-30-2016, 09:23 AM
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Our electrical bill runs $500 a month. We have all electric heat.
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  #20  
Old 04-30-2016, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JH35 View Post
Do you guys have this many add-ons to your bill? I'm sure some of you pay more per KW than I do.
You are at almost 17 cents a kwh.
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

Even duct tape can't fix stupid ... But it can muffle the sound.
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