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  #11  
Old 02-01-2017, 11:13 PM
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Its probably too late to do anything to this one, but I bet if you put a little bit of strategic jimping on the handle you could feel it with your fingertips as you pull the knife out and use it as a reference.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2017, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
Its probably too late to do anything to this one, but I bet if you put a little bit of strategic jimping on the handle you could feel it with your fingertips as you pull the knife out and use it as a reference.
The thumb rest was/is to serve that exact purpose..

After 27 years of having something one way and then to change it and also I move pretty quickly. More like a trimming machine 5-10minutes per horse. It just takes a minute to get it figured out..

If you look at the knife again you will see the handle is backwards compared to a conventional knife... deigned to fit the hand well forwards or reversed.

I have a tendency now to hold a knife more sideways instead of in line with the wrist so is the reason for the design changes.. I have found my wrist is less tired now...
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2017, 10:18 AM
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The bit of trimming I did was more in the range of 5-10 minutes per foot, with a few minutes between feet to stretch my back out again.

I seriously thought about learning more and persuing it farther, but I think my back is very happy that I didn't.


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  #14  
Old 02-02-2017, 12:41 PM
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I noticed the reverse curve. I don't use a hoof knife enough to give much of an opinion on that besides if it works for you then that's how you should make em I've made enough knives for enough people to know that there isn't anything that works for everybody.

The thumb rest isn't very pronounced for when you're moving fast and it would probably be in the way if it was bigger. I was thinking more like filing ridges in the tang, but leaving the handle profile smooth. Just something to give a different texture under your fingers. Looking again I see you did a hidden tang so that wouldn't work anyhow.
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