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  #11  
Old 02-26-2017, 08:36 PM
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SmokinDodge SmokinDodge is offline
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I actually get to deal with this on a daily basis. Our new engines actually burn oil due to a liner defect. I've overhauled engines with 120,000 miles because they were burning oil. In the old days this wasn't too big a deal but now with $10,000 after treatment getting fucked off by hydrocarbons in the exhaust it was never meant to handle it makes things real fun real quick.

I say that to say this. You can have an engine with no blowby but polished liners that burns oil. Until there is some friction in the liner to provide a shear for the rings to clean the oil from the liner it will always burn oil.

Not a big deal for Gerry or me because we can run a cat at throttle and check oil. Might be a big deal for a lease machine with inexperienced operators that may or may not check oil and operate at part throttle.

Leave the bon ami in the house where it belongs. Either ball hone the liners or don't do a thing.

If they are willing to pay that kind of money I'd put a cat engine kit in with a reman head on it and have it paid for in four months.


I have no formal training. I did read about it on the net though......
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2017, 10:43 PM
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Ironman Ironman is offline
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Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post

If they are willing to pay that kind of money I'd put a cat engine kit in with a reman head on it and have it paid for in four months.


I have no formal training. I did read about it on the net though......
That is why I called valve grinding a lost art. It is sad that everything is throw away. Back when Cat built real engines that lasted, they put in liners like these and made engines that were worth rebuilding. Now we got throw away blocks and throw way heads.
The factor in that cat that separates the men from the boys is that it is a gear jammer. The main lot of operators can't even imagine this.

My first cat I bought at 17 for 700 was an old beat out TD14, three speed stick and hi-lo range.
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  #13  
Old 03-17-2017, 12:25 AM
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cramd cramd is offline
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My sentiments, exactly. In cold and windy conditions it is best to have the rad wrapped in a tarp and monitor the engine heat. I remember pushing rip-rap on the well head islands in Norman Wells at 30 below, and being stripped to my T shirt and was very comfortable. With all the air directed back and recirculated with a tarp wrap, it was still impossible to put the needle into the hot zone.
I never quite got down to my tee shirt while winter operating the 1962 cat we had, but it was quite toasty from the top of the cowling down to the floor boards with a tarp style housing on it and a winter fan on the machine (two separate fans for the old girl).
The throttle was usually cranked to the stops when I was working it, and I usually tried to idle it fast enough that it wouldn't slobber when not working it. One foreman I worked for would come along when I was away from the cat and idle it right down, which always pissed me off because I would come back to a wet seat and slobber all over the hood.
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  #14  
Old 03-17-2017, 11:15 PM
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I found a Chinese shop in town that does all engine machining, and I was impressed that even the secretary knew what a 3 angle grind was, and this is the kind of shop where they hang around after work and sometimes finish a project, or sit and visit, so you can come in 2 hrs later and they are there.

So this week The old cat had her head on straight and after a day of mucking about in the melting snow, there was no extra bolts left over, and the engine purrs like a cat. I am very pleased with the result.

1. So here is the head, getting the valves out and knocking out the valve guides
2. ready to install, just riding around
3. The engine before cleanup
4. and all buffed up
5. and almost done

For a measly 180 horse they sure did not go cheap on the cast iron back then, seems that if a 1/2 inch would do, well an inch is better.
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:00 AM
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sounds good from here!


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