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  #61  
Old 07-21-2017, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
So what do you think? Is it gonna be good enough for you?
There is a lot of talk out there about rigidity in mills, and you think, so what. But the difference is like a tennis ball bouncing off your head versus being hit with a 2x4 in the head....dang but that 2x4 was rigid.

It seems to be effortless for the cutters as well. But the knee axis has those filthy metric scales and figuring depth of cut was fun. That has to change.
But yeah, it'll do me fine. Thanks for spotting it for me Keith.
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  #62  
Old 07-22-2017, 04:10 AM
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Another rain day so I was inside piddling around on the mill. Cleaning up dried on flood coolant does not work well with varsol, but it does soften it, and then a wire brush moves it. I pressure washed it with soap when I got the machine home and drained the sump.
The little spots in the nooks and crannies need a easy way to melt this shit. Alcohol? Brakekleen? Gas?
Alkaline cleaner, in a pinch oven cleaner, don't it on any aluminum parts.

sorry I am a bit late to the game.
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  #63  
Old 07-22-2017, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Alkaline cleaner, in a pinch oven cleaner, don't it on any aluminum parts.

sorry I am a bit late to the game.
I found that zep citrus degreaser worked well to melt that shit. But I will keep oven cleaner in mind
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

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  #64  
Old 07-22-2017, 09:34 AM
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Today I got at the mill for a bit.
Platypus sent me two new crank handles for the mill to replace the missing and damaged ones by flat rate box which were delivered by Milomilo the postman. While Chris was here we did other stuff, so today I decided to fit these handles to the machine.
The keyway in the handles was something different and so was the woodruff key in the machine, as it was 5 mm wide. So I carefully broached the ratcheting collar to 3/16, and as the collar was quite thin, I stopped the broach in mid stroke and pushed it back. I did not want to go deeper then the original key slot.
So as 3/16 is .1875 and the 5mm key is .1968, I filed the edges of the key a little and shaved off the top about 10 thou til it all fit.
The handles operate perfectly and add a touch of SFT class to the machine.
Thanks again, PlatypusJack
As usual, the GNAP is fashionably late to the party, I just noticed the post, I'm glad the handles were usable.
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  #65  
Old 07-22-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
I found that zep citrus degreaser worked well to melt that shit. But I will keep oven cleaner in mind
Water based coolant residue, is just that water based so all the solvents,
Varsol, etc. generally don't work. Coolant residue is mostly a mixture of dried
coolant and hard water soaps. So using a highly alkaline water based cleaner
is a good choice, Castrol Superclean is one you can buy. Most of the high
alkaline or high pH cleaner will etch, and eventually dissolve aluminum (and
zinc). For cleaning coolant you want your pH above 10, 11 is better. Wear
rubber glove and some eye protection. If you get any on you wash with
copious amounts of water.
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  #66  
Old 07-22-2017, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by platypus20 View Post
As usual, the GNAP is fashionably late to the party, I just noticed the post, I'm glad the handles were usable.
They were much shinier than the originals too.
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  #67  
Old 07-22-2017, 07:22 PM
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Yep, they are shiny
The Sensor Saga continues with hookup info provided by Camdigger and his techie. How to hook up 3 wire sensors to 2 wire amplifiers...of course my shot in the dark 3 dollar sensor works....backwards. Maybe that is because it is a NPN and I need a PNP type sensor? I tried reversing the wires and got no joy, still works backwards.

Soooo, reading up on the Turck amplifier I noted this statement:

Quote:
Each channel of the outputs can be changed
from NC(without bridge) to NO(with bridge).
For this purpose the clamps 11/12 (channel
1) and the clamps 13/14 (channel 2) are
used.
The "clamps" is a jumper wire, which I disconnected and the contactor now is operating in the reverse, and the $3 sensor works. I left the black wire dangling as it works fine without it.
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

Even duct tape can't fix stupid ... But it can muffle the sound.

Last edited by Ironman; 07-22-2017 at 07:45 PM.
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  #68  
Old 07-22-2017, 09:41 PM
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Glad to hear you got it running!
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  #69  
Old 07-22-2017, 10:00 PM
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Well then, now that all of that fixin' is done & out of the way, when will we be allowed to see a nice first (of many) video of this Beast from the Lagun in operation?
I am keenly interested in that.
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  #70  
Old 07-22-2017, 10:30 PM
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NPN and PNP may not make a difference in this case. The difference in the NPN and PNP is which wire the switch wire goes to. One connects the positive wire to the switch wire and the other switches to the negative. The sensors can be normally open or normally closed as well.

This is interesting and glad you got it working. Thanks for typing out the info for me/us.

Scott
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