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  #21  
Old 07-29-2017, 10:29 PM
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Walker Walker is offline
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In my experience you are cheaper off to replace the pump.
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  #22  
Old 07-30-2017, 11:11 AM
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https://www.hy-capacity.com/index.ph...=0&SG2=0&SG3=0
these guys make replacement hydraulic parts for a lot of stuff, often the same price as rebuilt.
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  #23  
Old 07-30-2017, 07:00 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Okay I got the pump off. The guy in Phoenix said he will give me a estimate no charge.
I will take it over there this week.
The pump is covered in 1/2 inch thick grease
I scraped most of it off.
I was wondering if a needle scaler would have helped?
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  #24  
Old 08-12-2017, 11:42 AM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Update
I took the pump to a shop in phx.
He told me there is a priority valve the works the steering first which is why I have no steering
So he pulled it apart and made new seals for it.
230.00 no warranty
I am installing it and I snapped the pto mounting flange. So now I am trying to see if it is cast iron or steel
I will take some pics and post them later
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  #25  
Old 08-12-2017, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
Update
I am installing it and I snapped the pto mounting flange. So now I am trying to see if it is cast iron or steel
I will take some pics and post them later
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
In my experience you are cheaper off to replace the pump.
But...but... it is cast iron. Cast steel will bend. It is weldable with Ni-rod, but you will have to dis-assemble the pump and remove the shaft seal and only heat and weld the front plate where the flange is.
I would heat it up well with a torch to cook out all the oil in the casting first.
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  #26  
Old 08-12-2017, 05:22 PM
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Here are the pics. I realize I should have bumped the starter so the gears were meshed
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  #27  
Old 08-12-2017, 06:36 PM
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Very clean cast iron. Should weld up nicely. Keep ii hot until all the weding is done.
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  #28  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:10 PM
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There is a clue hidden in this thread so far it has been a total learning experience
for a 50 year old machine at some point it is time to check the parachute

How much more can murphy have left with your name on it is the question. before starting to weld that casting make a simple fixture to keep the parts in proper relationship. if you are at all nervous ask a loto f questions before you start welding. cast is not difficult but if you get it wrong it gets messy fast.
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  #29  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:24 PM
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Is it possible to vee it out and bolt it on for the first bead?
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  #30  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Very clean cast iron. Should weld up nicely. Keep ii hot until all the weding is done.
Yes. Vee out the crack from both sides til you have about 1/8" left in the contact and bolt it to a plate, and have at it. after it cools down, unbolt it and heat it and do the other side.

You can stitch weld about an inch at a time, and peen the weld as it cools, or use the other method and preheat the whole thing and then weld it up.
Good quality modern cast is very forgiving, you can weld steel to cast and do alot of stuff with it. Got a bad hole in an engine block? zipwheel a chunk out of another engine and weld it in, as an example. I welded up a 24 inch long frost crack in a White tractor engine six years back by cold stitching and it's still running.

BTW, this looks like the pump drive, not the pump, even better, you just have to deal with the gear.
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