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  #11  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:04 AM
Scratch Scratch is offline
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Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
I guess the first “osha” type thing that come to my mind is will the wood be safe with the heat. I know leds are not supposed to be hot, but then why are they always mounted on aluminum for heat sinks. And will the wood keep from warping and breaking the light bulbs? Might not have to worry with that spring end. There is no power transferring to those pins right. Would not want to reach up there to replace a bulb and get shocked.

Other than that, are you planning on selling your place? That might be a negative from a potential buyer. Kinda redneck fix. And give them a bargaining point for lowballing the price.
Other than that, Just what I would consider doing. I have more spare time than spare money. I would rather tinker and make something even though I could maybe pick up some side work and buy what I want. But I always come back to thinking how many hours I would have to work at work to make enough money to buy something, and if I can make it in twice the many hours, then it is a good deal.

I really don’t care too much about looks, but I really should because some day, my kids will have to worry about getting rid of all my stuff, and I would hate for someone to come in and tell them that everything I did is a safety hazard and they need to bulldoze the place and redo everything to the way the authorities say it should be. Never mind that it has been working fine for 30 years already.
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The LED tubes don't get very hot. After leaving them on for about 20 minutes, I checked them with my laser thermometer and I could only find a high temp of around 90 degrees near the powered end. Also, mounting it to wood in my pics was just for testing. They'll be mounted to Sheetrock.

I guess it could "look" kind of redneck (you say that as if it's a bad thing...lol) if I ever sold the house, (which we have no plans to) but it should be all up to code using those UL approved handy boxes. The pins on the non powered end are just for holding the tube up and all of the electrical connections are enclosed.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
I will.
You already have the stuff all made and UL approved and mounted. You should disconnect the power from the ballast, cut the wires from the ballast at the end of the tombstones with the red and blue wires, and attach those to the power wires. Install the tubes. Done.
Three reasons I can't use the existing fixtures...

1. The one fixture that I have that does have the correct tombstones, has the bulbs that mount on the side of the fixture, not on the bottom. Since the LED tubes are designed to project light down, a lot of the light is projected onto, and across the ceiling instead of down. Some of the light is actually blocked by the metal fixture. Because of the way it's designed, there's no easy way to mount the tombstones on the bottom of that specific fixture. I'm using it right now, rewired, without the ballast, and with my new LED tubes, but you can definitely tell that some of the light is being blocked since the light only goes 90 degrees down, instead of 180 degrees.

2. All my other fixtures are the HO type tombstones I posted in another thread. Those ones have a completely different sized hole and are actually too large of a hole. I wouldn't be able to mount the correct tombstones in them without adding steel.

3. Two 4' bulbs are actually longer than one 8' bulb so the fixtures are actually about 1-1/8" too short for me to use, even if I could fit the correct tombstones in there.

Last edited by Scratch; 12-16-2017 at 09:36 AM.
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2017, 11:01 AM
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Lowes has T8 LED bulbs that can be direct wired. This model will also work with some ballasts, though it's better direct wired. On sale for $3.99.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-3...ulb/1000083437

I think this is the same model, just a 2-pack for $7.50:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2...lbs/1000083433

COSTCO has these on sale for $20 each. Not quite as efficient. They seem to go in and out of stock on-line, though the local store has plenty. Appears that the whole fixture is throw away, not replaceable tubes, though I haven't taken it apart.
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Last edited by USMCPOP; 12-16-2017 at 11:50 AM.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2017, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Scratch View Post
Can anyone think of any reason... safety, price-wise, or other, not to go ahead and make a bulk order of these LED tubes, and get some much needed light in my shop?

Hey, look at that... it works!
Buy one of the bulbs that I posted on your earlier thread from Amazon,
and compare the light output between the 2 bulbs. For a shop you want
bright light like a 6000K bulb, not 4000K or 5000K.
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2017, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by USMCPOP View Post
Lowes has T8 LED bulbs that can be direct wired. This model will also work with some ballasts, though it's better direct wired. On sale for $3.99.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-3...ulb/1000083437

I think this is the same model, just a 2-pack for $7.50:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2...lbs/1000083433

COSTCO has these on sale for $20 each. Not quite as efficient. They seem to go in and out of stock on-line, though the local store has plenty. Appears that the whole fixture is throw away, not replaceable tubes, though I haven't taken it apart.
Thanks, but it looks like the first link is the direct wire version, the second link... The two pack... Requires a ballast. Otherwise that would have been a great deal!
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratch View Post
The pins on the non powered end are just for holding the tube up and all of the electrical connections are enclosed.
My interest is piqued! To clarify, your "tension ends" are not electrically hot from the bulb? Will the bulb power up with 110v on the ends?--I'm talking full hillbilly here with butt connectors on the ends of a cord and slipped over the bulb terminal posts, then wrap the end with duct tape... INSTANT MEGA UNDERHOOD LIGHT! I'm kidding about the hillybilly part but would the bulb work? Are the powered pins particularly polar? Thanks for this post, btw...

Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCPOP View Post
Lowes has T8 LED bulbs that can be direct wired. This model will also work with some ballasts, though it's better direct wired. On sale for $3.99.

I think this is the same model, just a 2-pack for $7.50:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2...lbs/1000083433
Thanks for the links, Pop! I'll be dropping by Lowe's in an hour or so to get a 2-pack or 3.

When I bought the 4' LED fixture mentioned in another post (post LINK), I needed another fixture anyway to fill in a dark area over one of the work benches. I wished I hadn't spent so much ($40) but it is working OK and I like being able to pull the middle center mounted pull chain to turn it on or off if not needed or wanted. Pulling the chain doesn't upset the light like a side mounted pull chain on a fluorescent would.

As an aside to the post I linked to, the smaller LED work lights can be mounted onto a camera tripod for added height.
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Scratch View Post
Thanks, but it looks like the first link is the direct wire version, the second link... The two pack... Requires a ballast. Otherwise that would have been a great deal!
These reviewers would concur--see pic. Thanks for the update!
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
My interest is piqued! To clarify, your "tension ends" are not electrically hot from the bulb? Will the bulb power up with 110v on the ends?--I'm talking full hillbilly here with butt connectors on the ends of a cord and slipped over the bulb terminal posts, then wrap the end with duct tape... INSTANT MEGA UNDERHOOD LIGHT! I'm kidding about the hillybilly part but would the bulb work? Are the powered pins particularly polar? Thanks for this post, btw...



Thanks for the links, Pop! I'll be dropping by Lowe's in an hour or so to get a 2-pack or 3.
No, the "tension ends" are not electrically hot at all. And you only need 110V on one end of the tube. So Yes, the LED tube (bulb) will work with taking an old lamp cord or whatever, stripping the insulation off the two wires, and attaching it (somehow) to the two pins on the powered end (Polarity doesn't matter) and simply plugging it into the wall.

The other end that isn't marked powered (like my tubes) is there simply to hold the tube in the fixture. They can be shorted together, or not connected to anything even. There's nothing electrically connected internally to the pins, so yes, if you could find someway to securely attach the two pins on one side to a cord, it would work.

When I tested mine, I used an old lamp cord, stripped the ends, then used two short test wires with alligator clips to attach it to the pins. Worked great! And my mind started thinking of other ways to use these long, lightweight, light tubes as well!

The hillbilly in you (or me) would use the same alligator clips with those red or black rubber boots, then simply tape the wire to the tube to secure it. It wont get hot enough to wreck the tape.


Remember to use LED tubes that DONT require a ballast. Some do require a ballast, some don't, and some work with or without one!

Last edited by Scratch; 12-16-2017 at 02:45 PM.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2017, 05:15 PM
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Thumbs down This item is discontinued for the convenience of the customer...

I stopped in Lowe's on my way to the shop. I probably should have checked inventory online as they were out of the single bulbs. The man working electrical and bulbs checked inventory which was zero but a nearby store showed four. I picked up a the 2-pack linked by Pop above while I was there.

These bulbs are 2000 lumens each and 4000 brightness (color). The single bulb is part # YGA05A32-T8-18W-840-TB. The 2-pack bulb is the same number without the "B" on the end.

At the other store, there was only one on the shelf even though inventory showed four. The man told me they were discontinued and that was all they had. The remaining bulb had obviously been opened but I bought it anyway.

Back at the shop I ground down a couple butt connectors so I could spread the openings ever so slightly with an awl. Connected them to a 18-2 drill cord I had kicking around. Attached the cord to the single bulb and presto! It works! While on, I checked for voltage at the opposite "dead" end and there was none. There was also no continuity between the pins or to the hot pins. Note there is a "L" and "N" on a sticker on the bulb (Line & Neutral) but the instructions indicate it doesn't matter which end goes where and I swapped the connectors and it made no difference--the bulb still lit..

The instructions that came with the single bulb showed schematics on how to install sans ballast if it was not compatible (see pic). It also came with a sticker to put on the fixture indicating it had been modified (if that was the case) and a page in the instructions showing how to apply the sticker.

This bulb is definitely hillbillyable as the outer case is plastic and seems somewhat durable. They ARE directional with one side showing the mounting point for the LEDS along the length. Maybe a piece of tinfoil tape along the back half of it for reflectivity? Wrap some bubble wrap around the ends?

The 2-pack bulb I tested did not have an end with a "N-L" sticker on it. Nor did the instructions include the schematic page below, the mod sticker or page in instructions on how to put on the sticker. The instructions DID list more compatible ballasts--more on this below. Both ends were tested with the cord I made and the bulb did not light... I will be returning the 2-pack...

I can't understand WHY they would discontinue the single bulb that works with practically ALL contemporary fixtures. Did some idiot(s) get zapped trying to bypass the ballast as directed in the instructions? Leave the power on or some dumb shit? If so, why would they still list compatible ballasts? You still have to open up the light fixture to see which ballast you have... People like that shouldn't even be allowed to change a light bulb!

The Lowe's website link Pops provided above (the first one for the single bulb) will show you the inventory of your local store (might have to enter your zipcode). In my case they are all sold out although the semi-local store that had "four" now shows "three" even the shelf is bare. You can check "local" store inventory by selecting "CHECK OTHER STORES" A not-so-local store but in my travels this week shows a bunch so I might be buying them out if their inventory is correct. Our kitchen lighting uses SIX single fixture T-12 bulbs and I'm sure they are the old-style ballasts...
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Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot autodark (freebie)
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...

Last edited by mccutter; 12-17-2017 at 05:42 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2017, 06:17 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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there is a four pack with different specifications for $12.49

something is not right
Best to check if they are 120 volts, looks like 5000K, less lm, 14watts.

Item # 852826 Model # T81620F4-50
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Last edited by GWIZ; 12-17-2017 at 06:25 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2017, 08:47 PM
Scratch Scratch is offline
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3.99 for that single bulb is an awesome deal! I wish there was a store near me that had them.
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