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  #11  
Old 06-16-2017, 02:08 PM
Shelly142 Shelly142 is offline
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Location: Prescott, Arizona
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Default Small Rotary Table

I wanted to thank all contributors for their suggestions.

The material causing all the problems is in fact a drill blank and as greywynd noted is very hard. It’s so hard I had to cut the material with an abrasive blade.

The tables periphery has 24 equally spaced holes. I gave some thought to drilling from the hole directly opposite of the hole in question all the way across the table and simply replace the drill bit with a steel rod and drive the offending pin out. The table is 5.5” in diameter and will the hole line up properly when drilled. If not it wouldn’t damage or hurt the function of the tool, so this is one alternative.

I believe the approach I am going to take are those of Ironman and greywynd. Didn’t know that material that hard could be worked with carbide. Abrasive blade, diamond or stone wheel, yes.

I have ordered some carbide tools and will proceed with caution. Hopefully I can report back with a positive conclusion.
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  #12  
Old 06-16-2017, 05:04 PM
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greywynd greywynd is offline
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Just had a thought. In a pinch I've used chead carbide masonary drills on hard material. Might be a stretch, but if you can get a dimple in the centre with a dremel or die grinder, it might do it.

Any guess on how long the broken piece of pin is?

Time for a new signature line!!
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  #13  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:26 PM
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RED caddy RED caddy is offline
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It's a method of last resort, but I have heated a stuck bolt with a stick rod, the drill goes like this.

Strike an arc with a rod stub, melt a small puddle, turn off machine, let cool, pull and twist on rod stub (Takes way more time to tell it than to actually do it) This works very well on stuck/broken bolts, welding a nut to the broken end of the bolt and turning out is another application. A pin should nearly jump out when heated.

RED
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