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Old 03-20-2017, 10:57 PM
JP_in_STL JP_in_STL is offline
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Default Best current source for BandSaw Blades

I have a 4x6 from HF. It's one of the old green Taiwan made. I was using an Irwin BiMetal 10-14 pitch from Enco I could catch onsale for around $15. Now that they are MSC, it's $20 for a similar Irwin.

I liked the Irwins on price, but I'm not sure if what I'm cutting is the problem or if the quality was hit and miss. I cut sch40 3" pipe and 1/4" strap almost exclusively. The pipe is used drill stem and it seems I either get 1 cut and the blade already starts cutting curves or I get 50 cuts and it just keeps going. I'm sure there is some work hardening in this rusty used pipe? Will I be happier with a Morse or Starrett at $30ea?

I do have a recent acquisition Johnson J10, but I haven't gone through it yet and got it setup. But if it's the rusty material I'll be mad about trashing a $50 blade.

Any advice?
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2017, 05:26 AM
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digger doug digger doug is offline
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Are you following the "Minimum 3 teeth in the cut rule" ?

Could be on the pipe, the teeth aren't fine enough when you get half way down
thru (the thinnest cross section).
Is it going thru that area real fast ?
The 1/4" strap, cutting it flat ? or standing up ?
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:57 AM
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allessence allessence is offline
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I have found that the quality of the material has declined over the last 15years..

This has lead to eating a lot of blades.. I make my own so anytime I can find a really good deal on Starrett M42 I'll buy some but it's rare to find really good deals.. So usually just a carbon stock..

The carbon blades are especially prone to inclusions in the material and will be very noticable.. Will be cutting straight than the next thing you know it's cutting curves..

I have found a lot of defects or inclusions in the steels I had purchase over a time frame.. The stuff I've purchase recently has been much better..

for awhile I couldn't get anything other than Alloys that were decent..
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:08 AM
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dubby dubby is offline
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McMaster Carr Bandsaw Blades

Choose the 64-1/2" and 1/2" from the dropdowns and start browsing. I've had the best luck with the 'straight cut' in 6 or 10 tpi. Following the tooth rule has never really worked for me as I'm either standing around waiting all day if I choose the proper one. These little saws just don't have the weight to get through the thicker stuff.

I have more problems with metal fatigue in the blade than I do with tooth breakage.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:23 AM
JP_in_STL JP_in_STL is offline
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Well the pipe walls are 3/16 thick at the minimum. 10-14 should get me 2-3 teeth making the cut. I could go to a straight 16tpi?

I'm not so much worried about cut times. The saw is set on the slowest speed as it is. I set the cut up and then go weld/plasma something, etc. When the bandsaw is done, I quit welding. I never have to fight duty cycle on anything that way and just keep moving.

As to downforce, the crappy spring tension I abandoned. I use the saw weight +3lb hammer hanging from the handle.

The Johnson J10 is moving up to the top of my projects list I guess.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:48 PM
PeterDE4 PeterDE4 is offline
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I've had good luck with Sawblade.com. The have a good selection of sizes and blade material selection.
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:11 PM
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milomilo milomilo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP_in_STL View Post
Well the pipe walls are 3/16 thick at the minimum. 10-14 should get me 2-3 teeth making the cut. I could go to a straight 16tpi?

I'm not so much worried about cut times. The saw is set on the slowest speed as it is. I set the cut up and then go weld/plasma something, etc. When the bandsaw is done, I quit welding. I never have to fight duty cycle on anything that way and just keep moving.

As to downforce, the crappy spring tension I abandoned. I use the saw weight +3lb hammer hanging from the handle.

The Johnson J10 is moving up to the top of my projects list I guess.
If you had an Enco account, just give them a call and they will switch the account to the old Enco prices.
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