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  #21  
Old 12-03-2016, 07:55 PM
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These are the welders the boss decided to use. Going with stick.
The bigger Hobart is the one I have had stored at my place for 15 years, outside with no cover over it. I had plugged it in before bringing back into work and ran some test beads, and was surprised how nice it was. It did make a huge humming sound, but after cleaning up the main power relay switch, it quieted down. Co worker is very impressed with its welds. New power supply wire and its ready to go. Made a cart with casters on it to move it around. Starting to paint our tools Green. (Boss's last name anyways)


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Last edited by toprecycler; 12-03-2016 at 08:57 PM. Reason: add text.
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  #22  
Old 12-03-2016, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TEK View Post
Man, that sure looks like fun...getting that WF down the stairs was a chore. I think I would have put a small piece of plywood or a plank under the end of it,spanning a couple of steps, keep the ends from tearing up the carpet and it goes down smoother. That extendable boom section came in handy eh?..

Actually, the beams went in pretty easy. it was a tight squeeze for the crane, but we did not have to do any heavy lifting, only guiding the beam. It was a little jockeying having to extend the last boom section and then be able to lower the main boom part to be able to fit under the front door, but we figured it out. We set the bottom of the beam on the cart on the basement floor, set the beam down on the stairs, and moved the crane back to the top of the beam and lifted it up and then rolled the beam into the basement with the cart on the bottom and the crane on the top. The crane was able to reach all the way down the stairs, so that was nice. The only thing that would have been better is if the crane actually had a winch on the end of the boom that would have been able to drop the hook straight down. In order for the crane to lower the hook, it was in an arc, so the hook would move closer to the crane as it would go down.

Had to move the truck for the last pick? Them knuckle booms are pretty neat. I never really got to run one, goofed off with them but no real work..

We did move the truck for the beams. The posts were only 7-9' long, so they were easy to turn. We did have a car parked right next to the truck, so we had to be careful not to drop anything on it. Didn't block off enough parking spaces the night before.

A crank lift is really handy. Do you have two? Makes lifting a beam in place way easier. Are you going to have to block the beam up so the mast clears? The fork carrier sticks up a ways, would hate to get it up there and not be able to get it tight to the ceiling.

We do have two. Only one on site at the moment. We use them in the shop to help move stock around the steel room. We have extensions that make the top even with the top of lift, and I have built other extensions to make it higher. I will be making some more for this job. In some of the spots, we have a main water line in the way so we only have just enough room to raise the beam up and slide it over 6", so will have to have blocking on that one. And when we move up to the main floor, the bottom of the roof trusses are 14' off the floor, so we will be making some extra mask sections for the lift. Shh, dont tell anyone. lol But we are planning some other safety backups too. We are going to push the limits, but we plan on walking away too!

Those lifts are awesome, you most definitely want the cables and sheaves in good shape, and the ratchet stops and brake as well. .I hated it when a section would drop fast when being lowered, scare the heck outta you :eek
I rented them, never bought one. ...

New cables on order, along with new wheels for one. Should have both, but I am not in charge of the ordering.


If you already set the columns you should leave them low, get the beam up and bolted to the columns and then push them up hard with the Vermette lifts. After that you just run the nuts up tight and you're good. .

That is the plan. Unfortunately we only have about 5/8" clearance to put the beam on top and then raise it to the ceiling. I hope that there are not any low spots on the ceiling that we did not figure for!

How did you rig the post for the Vermette lift, forks tight to the tube, under the connection plate? Under studs? That can get spooky. ..

I had tubes sticking out over the front wheels 2'. Had to put some extra concrete blocks as counter balance on the lift, and then used 2 nylon straps around the post just past the center point to lift the post up. I then directed the post base plate onto the leveling bolts as coworker lowered the post. When done, I just plumbed the post up as low as I could just so the beams will be able to bolt on easily when we get to that point.

Do your posts sit on concrete, or do you have a saw cut hole with the anchor bolts in it? A cut out is way easier, more room for adjustment. If on top of the floor you only get an inch or so, I think dry- pack is supposed to be 1.5 inches. That column by the staircase, is that how they all are? I wouldn't think so but...?

12 of the 7x7x1/2 square tube posts set on the wall piers. those were the fun ones to lift into place, but went easy. Will try to take some pics next time I am there. Still have a couple to do, because I realized that I have to remove some more concrete from the holes we had cut into the floor for the next level of posts to go thru. Figured it would be easier without the post in the way. We will be putting non shrink grout under the base plates when done. It was planned for about 1 1/2" minimum grout, as long as the boss did his math right. We are all human, and mistakes have been made before.

In the center of the building, we had to add 6" sch 80 pipe posts under the existing steel beam holding up the center of the docksplank floor. Then we have to cut thru the docksplank and to the steel beam to mount posts above to carry the new beams that will be carrying the roof trusses after we modify them into 2 pieces. Going to be wall to center span, instead of clear spanning the entire building. The building is esentially being devided into 2 halves, and then adding 2 more floors.


If you have enough lead you could put your Bobcat on a pallet outside. It will run 1/8 lo-hy pretty easy, you can run .068 wire if your set up for that, Hobart Fabshield 21B would be a good choice, if the WPS allows. .
We decided to take two old electric welders and leave them on site for fab work. The electrician wired us in some cords. Now if we have enough lead, we will see. I had found about 200' of 4/0 wire, but when we went to put on new tweco quick connect, the wire was too big, so the boss said we will not use it. I asked if I could take it home and scrap it then, but that didn't go over well
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  #23  
Old 12-03-2016, 09:05 PM
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Looks to be interesting.. Dual shield would be my guess but I certainly am no expert in this field..

Will the building be heated for the work time?
Stick rod, 1/8" 7018. Not sure if we might be using 6011 for root passes or not yet. Not likely.


No heat, except for the heat of the welding! At least the work in the basement and first floor will be inside. Once we get the bar joists modified, then we will be putting holes in the roof and putting posts up to carry the third floor and roof. At that point, we should be able to use a normal crane to set the posts and beams, instead of using hand lifts. But then we will be outside subject to the weather, which will probably be in January or February. Great cold and windy time of the year.
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  #24  
Old 12-03-2016, 09:25 PM
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Welding 7018 on steel below freezing not so good. Might want to do some preheat before welding. Propane and a weed burner would suffice.
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:39 PM
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Stick rod, 1/8" 7018. Not sure if we might be using 6011 for root passes or not yet. Not likely.


No heat, except for the heat of the welding! At least the work in the basement and first floor will be inside. Once we get the bar joists modified, then we will be putting holes in the roof and putting posts up to carry the third floor and roof. At that point, we should be able to use a normal crane to set the posts and beams, instead of using hand lifts. But then we will be outside subject to the weather, which will probably be in January or February. Great cold and windy time of the year.
I remember a couple of the welders who were oldtimers at the fab shop that worked in the big bay where there was no heat and their DIY footwarmers. They'd stand on a small 3/4 or 1" plate drop and every so often reach down run a bead across the plate in front their boots to keep their toes warm.
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  #26  
Old 12-03-2016, 10:16 PM
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Brian, thanks for the detailed reply...it is appreciated. .
I could almost picture myself there, you do a great job of explaining your moves..

Yeah, those extendaho booms are neat. One of the tire companies that I've seen changing equipment tires had one. The guy was smooth, he would use the boom to break the bead on the tires, instead of the BFH the other guys used..

It is amazing how some folks park...unbelievable at times. A lot of the jobs we got were downtown Palm Springs, we would red cone the whole front of the building and invariably some cupcake would run over the cones and park right in the way. .We had a crane operator hook to a guys hitch and move the guys truck, I just watched, didn't want any piece of that. ..lol

Yeah, push limits sometimes but always have a backup or 3..I won't give your secrets away. ....not cheaply anyways. ..

Being xtra careful around that water line is a good idea. How easy is the steel gonna slide on the forks, with the blocks on there? I have seen them not want to slide, makes it bit spooky when the lift tilts sideways

When you slide beams the least amount of contact with the forks is best.

However you build the extension, put a small angle or a piece of round bar on the top, that way all those square inches of beam won't be rubbing all those square inches of fork, it would be sitting on a sharp edge of an angle or round bar...

Did you check the I beam for crown before you worked it, or maybe it doesn't matter. ..? Not having any lows in the decking would be a plus..lol

2 chokers per column, one to each fork?..That works. .
Whatever it takes, right? ..I have taken a piece of square tubing and welded plates on each end, one for thru bolts, the other end for a chain, lag bolted it to the floor of a scissor lift.....Used that 'faux boom' a couple of times, bolted it to the 2nd floor, sticking out of the doorway and used a come along to lift a staircase into place. .that was fun because the only way it would work was to have the comealong on the bottom, I had to ride the staircase up, added my 200lbs to the load..lol.. That's why they call us stuntwelders, right?

The heavy pipe columns are interesting, we used to call them 'double extra ugly'..How are you going to cut through the decking, or split the Joists?
If you have portable air don't rule out an airarc. You can get a fairly precise cut with that, sometimes slicing deck from underneath, with concrete above it, with a torch, can get messy..

Good luck with all of that, make sure you walk away with all the body parts that you walked in with. ..and still connected to you..
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  #27  
Old 12-06-2016, 12:16 PM
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Details Brian
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  #28  
Old 12-06-2016, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
...would it be worth while to get the suitcase wire feed out and working instead of stick welding everything. ...we will probably be working off scaffolding or ladders 14' high. ...
Stick.
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  #29  
Old 12-08-2016, 09:56 PM
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Today's progress. Put up a 1500# ibeam in the basement to support the concrete docks plank for a future stair opening. We had rolled the beam by the columns last week and had it about 12" off the floor. Had to wait for new cables for our lifts to pick it up and set it on the posts.

We first lifted the beam up and set it on temp blocks to then lower the lifts with the height extensions on in order to raise it up to post height. I still had to put two layers of wood cribbing on the lifts to get the beam high enough.

It went pretty easy over all. I wish the posts were a little bit shorter, but was able to make it work. The new guy that was helping me was impressed it went that easy with only the two of us. Probably one of the best secrets is using a pry bar to inch the carts carefully when you have the beam up in the air. You don't want any sudden jerks trying to move the lifts. And for some reason, the castors just don't like to turn when you want them too. Lol.


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Last edited by toprecycler; 12-08-2016 at 10:11 PM.
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  #30  
Old 12-08-2016, 10:37 PM
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Looking good. Pry bars are actually quicker than anything else and a whole lot safer too.
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