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  #51  
Old 03-04-2017, 06:40 PM
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Brian,
The spin off bolts save a lot of time. You can get everything hung and true with just getting the bolts snug with a spud wrench and when you're happy one guy on a ladder can torque the whole job.
Since you're using the 325s I'm assuming you have torque specs. If you are using a 1/2" drive or 3/4" drive torque wrench you already know how difficult that can be. To be safe you would need a scissor lift, or man basket. That's rental on them, plus 2 guys in the lift, plus plus plus...

Seconds add up to minutes, minutes add up to dollars. ..

If you watched that vid you can see how fast you can torque a connection.
No need to mark them as done, the stubs are on the deck and the inspector can see the bolts...

The bolts aren't the cheapest, plus rental on the gun, it's still way faster..and you can bury the bolts and rental in the bid. I used to be able to get the gun from my bolt supplier, lots of times they would waive the rental if we only had it a day...

Welding the columns is nice, if you're off a taste it isn't an issue. Bolted col connection right at the beam connection is best but engineers are always right, just ask them

If your co-worker wants to buy a batt impact on his own I would let him. You use it on site a couple of times and you'll want one. Battery tech has come a long way and this generation batteries last a long time. If you just use it to snug things it won't eat the battery and , if you beat the same sized nut on your reamers you won't have to change sockets.

When we had the slab sawn the crete guys would dig the footing and set our anchor bolts. The saw guy was a friend of mine, he did good work anyway...

It didn't always go that way, depending on who did the slab. .There were 2 concrete guys I would use, another one, Omni ,out of Cathedral City, absolutely sucked. We wound up almost driving him out of business, I think he was down to driveways and planter boxes by the time I left...

After getting screwed a couple of times I settled on 1/4" templates with center lines scribed on and nail holes punched on the line, about 3/4 inch from the edge.

When we assembled the template in the shop we made sure we had enough threads above the template so we didn't get screwed when we set the columns. The crete guys would nail the template to a 2x or other blocking and then pour. Sometimes they intercoursed the canine but most times they got it right. If they didn't get it right I would make sure they knew it

We sometimes had to drill and glue, like on a remodel, I didn't really like it. The glue had too long a cure time and it was messy. If you went too deep on the hole it used too much glue and it wouldn't get total coverage when you shove in the all thread.

It was worst on vertical applications, oozing out. If you are drilling into old brick or soft crete it was sometimes the only thing that worked. You have to have absolutely clean holes and a few times we had the gun break or the mix tube cure solid. I forget what glue we used , I think it was a Hilti product, not sure..a couple of times I cheated, I would glue the hole but use wedge anchors anyway. Could get it all done without the cure time constraints. ..

On the 'guy on the job' thing, ain't that what the super is for? If he has his head up and has a hard time seeing it can be difficult but for the most part the companies we worked with were pretty good. Down in the desert it was kinda cliqueish (is that a real word?) and communications between primes was pretty good. .

I know what you mean about messing up shop drawings..Didn't worry too much about rain in the desert but it was an issue up here in central CA. Nothing like what you have to deal with but it was a factor.

I had a bad habit of getting burn spots on them, I made a little rolling table with a flip over cover when I was in the south, never did that up here. Here, boss man rarely had shop drawings, he would keep the main set in the office and I would have to sketch my own..but I can read my own writing so it was all good. ..

Thanks for the updates Brian, stay safe and warm...
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  #52  
Old 03-17-2017, 09:18 PM
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The carpenters were putting wood in the beams as soon as I got them welded up. Unfortunately, the two days we were setting steel this week was in the teens, so it made for some cool working. Have most of the heavy amount of steel in now. Three more beams in the third floor roof framing.

Next week, I guess I will be working on the handicap ramp for the new entrance. Still a lotta little loose ends to finish up, and some major strengthening to the front wall to support the new brick face. And the boss is sweating the welding inspection of the truss mods. I guess I am glad that I did very little of that welding, but will be upset if I have to go and fix some welds if they fail inspection because it is getting harder to move around due to carpenters putting walls up and fire sprinkler system being plumbed in.


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  #53  
Old 03-26-2017, 01:58 PM
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I think the view from the back apartment will have the best view of the bay if they put windows on the side. The front view will be limited to the trees in the park. Next week we will be putting up the last of the big beams on the third floor. The crane will not be able to reach these, so they will be lifting them up to the third floor and we will have to set them with our hand lifts. When we have the crane on site, they either have to shut down eastbound Main Street or the alley behind the building. So far the city has been good about this even though frost laws are on and they were not supposed to be driving the crane on the roads at all. The building must go on .

Couple pics of the handicap ramp entrance, for the new entrance of the partitioned new half.


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  #54  
Old 03-29-2017, 10:34 PM
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A few pics of the street we blocked off with the crane to set wood trusses and the last of the steel beams up on the third floor. Project manager was happy. We only closed down the street for two hours to unload three trucks of materials and swing to the roof.



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  #55  
Old 03-29-2017, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
A few pics of the street we blocked off with the crane to set wood trusses and the last of the steel beams up on the third floor. Project manager was happy. We only closed down the street for two hours to unload three trucks of materials and swing to the roof.



Attachment 138588Attachment 138589Attachment 138590Attachment 138592


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When are you scheduled to finish your parts of this project?
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  #56  
Old 03-29-2017, 11:17 PM
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Bryan, what have you done to your pictures?
They're showing up tiny, about 4 - 4.5 inches wide.
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  #57  
Old 03-29-2017, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cutter View Post
Bryan, what have you done to your pictures?
They're showing up tiny, about 4 - 4.5 inches wide.
Could it be the app, and not him?

Another forum I frequent one member uses Tapatalk and his pictures never open right. ..
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  #58  
Old 03-30-2017, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cutter View Post
Bryan, what have you done to your pictures?

They're showing up tiny, about 4 - 4.5 inches wide.


Thanks for letting me know. When I attach the pics using Tapatalk I have the option of three sizes. I have been picking the small size thinking for quicker downloads for our slower server members. I will try the largest size of you let me know how they look.


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  #59  
Old 03-30-2017, 05:36 AM
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Could it be the app, and not him?



Another forum I frequent one member uses Tapatalk and his pictures never open right. ..


Are you seeing the pictures ok?


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  #60  
Old 03-30-2017, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
When are you scheduled to finish your parts of this project?


We probably have three to four more weeks. We have been waiting for reengineering on the front wall for about 2 months and just received that info yesterday. Now we are just waiting for either wood guy or mason to get their work done so we can actually set the last two structural beams that we put up on the roof Tuesday.

I guess some of our welds didn't pass the inspection. But those were basically impossible to due because of where they are required. Unless we were to remove all the blocks that were holding the bar joists in the walls, so we could get to the bottom side of the rods we had to add.


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