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  #1  
Old 02-19-2017, 11:26 PM
rubsterstick rubsterstick is offline
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Default tips welding on a 6013 rod

I'm a beginner student, I'm struggling on a vertical t joint with 6013. I need tips. thanx
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2017, 11:38 PM
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Most people will tell you to switch rods

6013 just likes to run on you. If you aren't required to use it, then 6011 would be a much better choice for vertical work.

If you do have to use 6013 then the best advice I can give is to focus on the puddle and do your best to ignore all the flux running underneath it. You will have to do a pretty exaggerated whip and pause.

Welcome to SFT by the way
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:39 PM
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Welcome to the site, I can't help you with the 6013. I ran a few rods about 40 years ago and didn't care for it at all and have never ran any since, There will be someone here that can help you.
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Old 02-20-2017, 12:27 AM
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You can run 6013 vertical but it is more difficult than 6010, 7018 or 6011. Like mentioned before watch the puddle and ignore the slag. Helps to keep the heat down too. Show us some pics of what you have done so we can see and give you better advice.

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Old 02-20-2017, 12:38 AM
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I'm with Matt--change rods if you can. 6013 don't like to go uphill. It can be made to work--sort of--but if you're trying to learn uphand it's not the best place to start. If you could weld 6013 without all the slag it might not be too bad; the weld is a bit runny but it's the slag hiding the puddle that makes it tricky.

This may or not help but when I was learning to weld the old guy (Jeez, that's me now ) who was kinda my mentor had me start by setting the workpiece at a 45 degree angle instead of a full vertical. It's much easier to hold a weld together at that angle but it still teaches you the motion required. When you get comfortable at that kick it up to a full 90 or, if you're struggling a bit, tilt your work up to 60 degrees to make it more challenging.

You will get it, it just takes practice and patience...
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Old 02-20-2017, 12:57 AM
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What Keith said.

If not for this trick, I'd probably still struggle.
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Old 02-20-2017, 03:08 AM
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http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...highlight=6013

I got some good advice here a few years back, and figured out what keith said myself.

so a small bit cooler than if you were doing the same weld horizontally, angle the rod upwards slightly and practice on a slope, I find any few degrees off verrical makes a huge difference. I wouldnt claim to be good at it, but I can manage now. they still look horrendous before you chip but there's often a half decent weld in there now.
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Old 02-20-2017, 07:18 AM
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Rubberstick,
6013 are a basic rutile GP positional electrodes and as such should be able to manage a reasonable vertical up in the hands of a competent operator.

I believe I can help as I have taught many students here in Australia with using these particular electrodes.The key is using a minimal short arc length with a higher amperage. The short arc length minimizes heat, while the higher amps give penetration.

Firstly whats the leg length of this vertical fillet? Whats the plate plate thickness and what is he core wire dia of the electrode? The fillet bead,is it one pass or two?

The key to any test is know what the requirements are to pass and train the operator what to do to meet the requirements. What are the causes of failure of this test? Are there maximum and minimum bead widths, minimum and maximum bead height, allowable inclusions, minimum undercut to a set limit.

Practice without the knowledge of what the pass /failure standards are, is not as good as also understanding what the means of avoiding failure items are.

Another element I'll toss in is that certain brands are great to use and others are not. So if it is at all possible try some different brands.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:27 AM
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As stated there is 6013 and 6013, my go to rod is a 6013 made by BOC called Weldcraft, it always does exactly what I want regardless of the position. On the other hand I got some Chinese made 6013 and they are totally different. For your first run use what is called a Xmas tree weave. I would use a 2.6 mm for that then go to a 3.2(1/8) and do a side to side weave. As a guide don't weave more than twice the width of your rod ( flux diameter). Some people use a weave lifted on the ends, I don't I just go straight but either will work.
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:41 AM
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you couldn't pay me to run 6013...........................
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