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Old 04-04-2017, 12:28 PM
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Default Need Cast iron tig rod

Hi guys.. I had an oil pan come in that has a 8" crack.. It's been fixed before and is the reason why it has even more cracks.. The guy hasn't had any luck finding a new one..

I need info/suppllier etc, etc.. The cast is about 1/2" thick..

Weldmold?
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  #2  
Old 04-04-2017, 12:32 PM
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Try these people, both friendly and helpful. The mig wire for cast is outstanding but a little costly.
A list of their products
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Last edited by digr; 04-04-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:59 PM
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edit; any of the cracking running through the flush mounting plane of the pan? or a mounting bolt flange?

Jenn, I've got a few country friends around the farm that have fairly old diesel engines running their deep water wells for irrigation purposes. One in particular has had a history of just vibrating itself slowly to death, one crack at a time. Oil pans being the most costly for some reason.

The problem is with the intrusion of oil and diesel crap that gets into it's core material over time.

The last time it came in I tried my best to clean, even to the point of having it steamed and soaked with heat to clean with steam.

I've since kept it's repair down to using a Lincoln rod Nickel 99 due to it's negating carbon intro.

Here's a note to adhere to.................if you do not have a steam cleaner, find one to use or pay to have it done thoroughly.

Use something like the Spray die penetrant products with one big harsh black light for viewing ends of cracks.

I find the ends of the cracks, stop drilled those, v'd and welded full pen. Without Die Pen, you cannot always find the endings.

Having asbestos welding blankets to keep the whole casting full on hot for welding with plenty of extra heating to keep things close to same from start to finish and slow cooling. I have a deep oven made for curing hot coats and use this for pre and post heating and slow cool downs.

Previous repairs on cast have always been my problem with future repairs having to remove what's already been laid down previous.

I know you know all of this, just an old guys rambling on before a shower. .
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Old 04-04-2017, 05:33 PM
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Just figured I would add in what has worked for me in the past as well.

The nickle 99 rod is a great choice.

My process

Degrease, then steam clean, then steam clean again, then I bake the part, I have a old gas grill partially filled with fire brick, I would bring the part up to 600 and let it bake for a few hours, let it cool and bake again, this seems to do a good job of turning the oil into carbon.

At this point I will wash again and then bake one more time to dry it.

use whatever method to find the ends of all cracks and drill stop holes.

I tend to like to fixture things up at this point and make sure that everything lines up well and my fixture is set before preheat.

Preheat and use your process of choice. As soon as I am done with the fix, it goes into the preheated grill and I slowly let it cool, the lid and the fire bricks retain the heat well and if needed I will wrap the grill in blankets to slow the cooling further.
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Old 04-04-2017, 05:52 PM
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Everything Jef said, except my flavor of choice is PostAlloy brand. Washington alloys has a real good reputation as well, but I have no first hand experience.
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:46 AM
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I have been using the crown alloys MIG wire for cast iron. It works great. About $80 for a 2# spool. If you want to try it but can't justify it for the job I could mail you my spool, just pay for what you use.
Otherwise just braze the pan.
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
I need info/suppllier etc, etc.. The cast is about 1/2" thick..
So Ms Jenn, what did you end up using or doing..........

personally, I have a tendency to do repairs like this knowing that in the future it may come back and I'll be fixing another break or crack. That said, I go to the extreme best guess as to what to use in the beginning as it gets considerably harder to change filler or process when you having to remove the original fillers to re-do etc.

Most of what I get is after someone in their garage tried to fix and then realizing they maybe should have paid someone with a little more knowledge to do the fix.

Just curious what you've decided to go with on the repair as it helps us and others to make the final decisions like same down the road.
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Old 04-06-2017, 02:59 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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It will be Crown MIG wire.. I'll call them today. I told the person it will be a few weeks once i get the needed welding wire.

Really it's a job I'd rather not do, But there really isn't anybody around who can tackle it and achieving a good result.. I told the guy it might not work, but it would be better than the last fix..

The Die penetrant is a great idea.. I'll have to get some.. I've been lax this week as I'm still depressed from the last snow storm so go do farrier work, come home and then sleep for a few hours before I can get going again..

what size wire should I buy? The oil pan is about 1/2" to near 5/8"..

Thanks for the help guys..
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #9  
Old 04-06-2017, 03:09 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Try these people, both friendly and helpful. The mig wire for cast is outstanding but a little costly.
A list of their products
I called them and they recommended the 44-30 wire.. They don't do direct sales though.. Bummer..

Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
edit; any of the cracking running through the flush mounting plane of the pan? or a mounting bolt flange?

Jenn, I've got a few country friends around the farm that have fairly old diesel engines running their deep water wells for irrigation purposes. One in particular has had a history of just vibrating itself slowly to death, one crack at a time. Oil pans being the most costly for some reason.

The problem is with the intrusion of oil and diesel crap that gets into it's core material over time.

The last time it came in I tried my best to clean, even to the point of having it steamed and soaked with heat to clean with steam.

I've since kept it's repair down to using a Lincoln rod Nickel 99 due to it's negating carbon intro.

Here's a note to adhere to.................if you do not have a steam cleaner, find one to use or pay to have it done thoroughly.

Use something like the Spray die penetrant products with one big harsh black light for viewing ends of cracks.

I find the ends of the cracks, stop drilled those, v'd and welded full pen. Without Die Pen, you cannot always find the endings.

Having asbestos welding blankets to keep the whole casting full on hot for welding with plenty of extra heating to keep things close to same from start to finish and slow cooling. I have a deep oven made for curing hot coats and use this for pre and post heating and slow cool downs.

Previous repairs on cast have always been my problem with future repairs having to remove what's already been laid down previous.

I know you know all of this, just an old guys rambling on before a shower. .
No cracks through any flanges.. I'll post up pictures tomorrow..

Thanks for the info.. I don't have a steam blaster.. I'll more than likely hit it with the rose bud to start off with and a ir thermometer..

What temp? 450 500F?

It said on the Crown site no preheat needed but rather be safe then sorry..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
I have been using the crown alloys MIG wire for cast iron. It works great. About $80 for a 2# spool. If you want to try it but can't justify it for the job I could mail you my spool, just pay for what you use.
Otherwise just braze the pan.
I'll being going with the Crown.. Thanks for the offer on the wire.. I still don't have a spool gun for Yeti so will have to run it out the Push/Pull or take it off for a regular mig gun.. I appreciate the offer though..


Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
So Ms Jenn, what did you end up using or doing..........

personally, I have a tendency to do repairs like this knowing that in the future it may come back and I'll be fixing another break or crack. That said, I go to the extreme best guess as to what to use in the beginning as it gets considerably harder to change filler or process when you having to remove the original fillers to re-do etc.

Most of what I get is after someone in their garage tried to fix and then realizing they maybe should have paid someone with a little more knowledge to do the fix.

Just curious what you've decided to go with on the repair as it helps us and others to make the final decisions like same down the road.
Jef, this thing is pretty messed up.. I'll have to take out all the old filler..

The guy will be buying the wire and having to replace a few carbide burrs along the way.. I told him it's going to be in the 4-500.00 realm.

I figured this way I could recoup most of my costs and maybe a little extra wire laying around..
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-06-2017, 03:35 PM
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Most of the time I just put the. 2 pounder on my shop MIG and run it through the 15 foot gun. I do respool the wire in the gun after I am done.
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