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  #11  
Old 06-23-2017, 11:49 AM
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SmokinDodge SmokinDodge is offline
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Self calibrating peg leg?
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  #12  
Old 06-26-2017, 09:58 AM
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Default Door Panel Repair

Referring to the pictures below, you can see the parts in action. TopRec was somewhat correct in his answer. I epoxied a leather door panel armrest insert from a structurally damaged door panel (from a broadside accident) to my existing panel which had a nasty, dirty cloth insert.

The insert and map pocket are attached to the door panel by way of tabs that stick through the insert and pocket in a number of locations and are part of the door panel plastic. It would appear to me the excess tab sticking up through the insert and pocket slots is then melted down to form a "rivet" of sorts that retains the insert and pocket. Those are the little blue "ball" looking things still visible on the map pocket.

To remove the insert, I had to grind down the balls/rivets from the broken door panel and remove the "good" arm rest insert. Then I carefully ground the balls/rivets on the "good" panel into a tab shape and removed the old insert. Although the tabs fit the slots very well, they were going to be too short. You can see the tabs in the slots in some of the pics.

Starting with top row of slots because they aligned easily I determined the "new" insert was going to have to be coaxed/clamped into place somehow. The JB Weld "Kwik" sets in 4 minutes so a number of small batches were mixed and applied. I epoxied the top row first and let them dry/harden overnight. The epoxy was squished into the slots and encapsulated the tabs with epoxy.

Some C-clamps with pads (not shown) were used to hold the top edges in while the epoxy hardened.

I then found a Powerade container and a peanut container to use to "spread" the insert so it would align with the bottom slots. The peanut container fit the curvature of the handle pull hole perfectly. I had to use a piece of sandpaper to help hold it in place.

Next I crafted a bottom support to push up on the door panel in-between the pocket and insert and an extension for the squeeze clamp/pusher that would reach the overhead shelf. The support had about a 15^ angle cut down the length then was covered with some corduroy I had on hand attached with staples. The wood was nailed and glued together. The Al boxes were used to support the top of the panel.

With the insert pushed down into the panel with the spreader, a few more batches of epoxy were applied and allowed to harden overnight. I also repaired one of the retaining clip attachment points.

Yes, this was a 3-day affair but actual "work" was only about an hour. I am very happy with the results and the panel doesn't look bad for being 13 years old!

Bonus points for guessing the orange thing in one of the pictures--be specific! EDIT: the orange "thing" is in the background of the second picture... HINT: it was made in 1972...

PS: these panels new (if you can find one) are about $300! The rest of the leather panels (4-door car) were in good condition and are already installed. The passenger front DID need a little bit of epoxy on a few broken tabs to make it "perfect".

More pics follow...
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Last edited by mccutter; 06-27-2017 at 02:13 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-26-2017, 10:02 AM
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Default More door panel repair pics...

More pics...
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot autodark (freebie)
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...
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  #14  
Old 06-26-2017, 10:29 AM
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Nice fix. Always makes me smile to see what many of us do here to save a buck.
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2017, 12:36 PM
Samcord Samcord is offline
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What car does that fit on?
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  #16  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samcord View Post
What car does that fit on?
2004 VW Jetta. The insert and other door panels came from a 2001 Jetta.

I got power leather seats from the 2001, also. That required wiring them in and adding a terminal to the fusebox, etc. Had to change airbag and seatbelt connectors as those were different... It turned into a real project! But they look factory installed and the leather is supple and pliant--a rarity here in the sun-baked south. The car the parts came from was a NY car and probably garaged. Pic is of the donor car... Although it was over an hour drive to get them, the seats, door panels and glove box only cost $200.
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot autodark (freebie)
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...

Last edited by mccutter; 06-26-2017 at 06:29 PM.
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2017, 07:59 PM
Samcord Samcord is offline
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Nice, is it diesel?
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  #18  
Old 06-27-2017, 11:13 AM
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JohnBoy JohnBoy is offline
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Ha! I was just looking at those over the weekend thinking how horrible a job that was going to be.

The door cards have a tendancy to fall apart anyway, but mine have not been helped by a rough handed alarm installer who tied into the central locking.


I've just bought a 2001 1.8t GTI for a bit of a toy car, they're gone super cheap over here, this was €700 with 10 months test on it.
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2017, 11:47 AM
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LKeithR LKeithR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy View Post
...this was €700 with 10 months test on it...
Jeez man, you trying to confuse our American friends?
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2017, 01:56 PM
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mccutter mccutter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samcord View Post
Nice, is it diesel?
No, 1.8t like JohnBoy's. A little newer "AWP" engine so a few more horses, around 180, I think. DOHC 20v, 3I/2E per cyl, turbo/intercooled, pretty sweet mill, starts pulling real nice around 2500rpm--no need to wind the hell out of 'em. The "tuners" insist on putting bigger turbos and intercoolers, oil catch cans, 3" exhaust, fart cans, ECM "tune", etc but this one is bone stock--no MIL, no codes, all the emission stuff is connected and working. I add a 1/2 qt about every 2000mi--not bad for 268k!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy View Post
Ha! I was just looking at those over the weekend thinking how horrible a job that was going to be.

The door cards have a tendancy to fall apart anyway, but mine have not been helped by a rough handed alarm installer who tied into the central locking.


I've just bought a 2001 1.8t GTI for a bit of a toy car, they're gone super cheap over here, this was €700 with 10 months test on it.
It is not really that bad of a job pulling the door "cards" as long as you know the "tricks" to getting them off in one piece. gootube is your friend here but there are a lot of butchers so you'll have to sift through the rabble until you find a "real" mechanic there. PM me if you have any questions or want to know the procedure. If you know what you're doing it should take no more than 5min. to pull a panel off IN ONE PIECE!

I don't know if that is such a good deal, btw. It will cost you thousand$ to put the steering wheel on the left side where it belongs!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
Jeez man, you trying to confuse our American friends?
No confusion here (sort of ) That's about $800US or $2000CN (jk )

I'm guessing the "10 months test on it" means there is no need for an emissions/safety test until then and is a "bonus" of sorts.

What I do get confused with is how the plates/registration stay ON the car, maybe not in Ireland, but in England, for example. Here in the states, we keep our plates when we sell a car. There IS a paper (or electronic) title that transfers with the car and is proof of ownership.
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot autodark (freebie)
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...
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