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  #11  
Old 06-23-2017, 10:09 PM
Samcord Samcord is offline
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Alternator. Most generators use mechanical regulators. Some alternators use mechanical regulators and some us electronic regulators. Mine is a mechanical regulator.


Confusion quashed. It seems that the ECM is the voltage regulator on newer cars. By newer, I think the last 20 years or so.
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  #12  
Old 06-23-2017, 10:49 PM
yooper yooper is offline
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Chris, I would sing "Drop kick me Jesus, through the goalposts of life" as you dropkick that alternator into the scrap.
Get yourself a one wire alternator from NAPA or others, with the correct frame type, probably 21SI. You attach the one wire to the battery hot that is on the alternator at present.
The newer alternators will have parts availability and better lifespan than what you have.
This is good , sound advice , save yourself a lot of grief and do this upgrade .
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2017, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Samcord View Post
Confusion quashed. It seems that the ECM is the voltage regulator on newer cars. By newer, I think the last 20 years or so.
My 2004 Dodge 3500 has the voltage regulator controlled by the ECM.
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  #14  
Old 06-23-2017, 11:27 PM
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If that part of the ECm a good electrical shop has a work round. It is a added bit to the alternator that makes it one wire.
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Chris, I would sing "Drop kick me Jesus, through the goalposts of life" as you dropkick that alternator into the scrap.
Get yourself a one wire alternator from NAPA or others, with the correct frame type, probably 21SI. You attach the one wire to the battery hot that is on the alternator at present.
The newer alternators will have parts availability and better lifespan than what you have.
It took me few days, but this morning I got a 10SI alternator for $50. My question now is I have 12v going to the + terminal of the alternator which is not switched. Do I need to have it switched?

Second question is what do I connect the field wire to? Can I just connect it to the + on the alternator which is live all the time, or should I connect it to the + on the starter so it is only live during cranking? Or, do I need to connect the field wire at all?
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  #16  
Old 06-26-2017, 07:26 PM
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Chris the answers to your question depend on which regulator it has. They make the regulators in totally internal connected or single wire and up to three wire.
The more complicated versions normally used as replacements in automobiles need a wire for voltage sensing and a switched wire through an indicator light. The Light provides the field current to start the alternator charging then the light goes out when the alternators internal circuitry puts battery charging voltage on the alternator side of the light.
AFAIK there is little or no difference in the cost of the various versions because the internal changes to the regulator are minimal and all that is aded to the alternator is an internal feedback resistor.

The box the alternator came in has a part # look it up on the Web it should tell you which version you have.
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2017, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
Chris the answers to your question depend on which regulator it has. They make the regulators in totally internal connected or single wire and up to three wire.
The more complicated versions normally used as replacements in automobiles need a wire for voltage sensing and a switched wire through an indicator light. The Light provides the field current to start the alternator charging then the light goes out when the alternators internal circuitry puts battery charging voltage on the alternator side of the light.
AFAIK there is little or no difference in the cost of the various versions because the internal changes to the regulator are minimal and all that is added to the alternator is an internal feedback resistor.

The box the alternator came in has a part # look it up on the Web it should tell you which version you have.
The alternator box was used for the core I returned. I will go back and get the P/N from the auto shop tomorrow. I did start it up a little while ago with only the 12v+ output connected and the reading I got at the alternator was only 1.7V at high rpm. Tried flashing the field connector to 12+, no change.
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2017, 08:46 PM
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Default here is how to do it

Mr Milomilo

please go to this site and it will help you get er dun.....

http://myfordtractors.com/delco.shtml

no thanks needed enjoy your posts..

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  #19  
Old 06-27-2017, 08:34 AM
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And a video for doing the hookup
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2017, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rwoody View Post
Mr Milomilo

please go to this site and it will help you get er dun.....

http://myfordtractors.com/delco.shtml

no thanks needed enjoy your posts..

SFC WOOD


Thanks for that link. Here is another good one from that site about batteries.
http://myfordtractors.com/battfact.shtml


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