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  #21  
Old 07-01-2017, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
Chris the answers to your question depend on which regulator it has. They make the regulators in totally internal connected or single wire and up to three wire.
The more complicated versions normally used as replacements in automobiles need a wire for voltage sensing and a switched wire through an indicator light. The Light provides the field current to start the alternator charging then the light goes out when the alternators internal circuitry puts battery charging voltage on the alternator side of the light.
AFAIK there is little or no difference in the cost of the various versions because the internal changes to the regulator are minimal and all that is aded to the alternator is an internal feedback resistor.

The box the alternator came in has a part # look it up on the Web it should tell you which version you have.
The alternator P/N is 90-01-3106, reman by Wilson. I can't seem to find which regulator is in it.
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  #22  
Old 07-01-2017, 12:44 PM
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The pictures on the Wilson site show the two connections to the regulator bridged which will prevent plugging in the external sensing and flashing plug.
This configuration means it is a single wire alternator so you simply connect the power lead to the alternator output terminal.
After starting the engine the alternator will self excite once the alternator rpm exceeds the alternator start up speed.
The disadvantage to this system is that there is no indicator light which means that you should have either an ammeter or a voltmeter in the circuit to prove that charging is happening otherwise your first clue is often a dead battery.
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  #23  
Old 07-01-2017, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
The pictures on the Wilson site show the two connections to the regulator bridged which will prevent plugging in the external sensing and flashing plug.
This configuration means it is a single wire alternator so you simply connect the power lead to the alternator output terminal.
After starting the engine the alternator will self excite once the alternator rpm exceeds the alternator start up speed.
The disadvantage to this system is that there is no indicator light which means that you should have either an ammeter or a voltmeter in the circuit to prove that charging is happening otherwise your first clue is often a dead battery.
I did just as you said. Hooked up the old alternator output wire to the alternator and revved up the engine and still only read battery voltage, no charging current. I have a amp gauge and it also did not show charging. It used to show a charge when first started.

Maybe the amp gauge burnt out when the inline fuse melted??? I have another amp gauge I can replace the old one with. The alternator two wire plug is marked with F and A. Do I need to flash the alternator to get it to take off? By the way, the pulley size on the new alternator is slightly smaller than the old alternator pulley. Maybe the diesel engine is not spinning the new alternator fast enough?
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  #24  
Old 07-01-2017, 03:35 PM
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Post a picture.

A picture on O'Reillys shows a two pin plug along with the Bat stud.

We have this thread but Cavalry did not update his findings.
http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=40737
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Last edited by GWIZ; 07-01-2017 at 03:50 PM.
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  #25  
Old 07-01-2017, 04:22 PM
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Pics. The pins are marked F and R not F and A. The F and R wires are not connected at this point. The alternator wire goes to the amp gauge. The amp gauge wire reads battery voltage. There is no switch for it. It does not spark so I am guessing it will not drain the battery????
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Last edited by milomilo; 07-01-2017 at 05:47 PM.
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  #26  
Old 07-01-2017, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
I did just as you said. Hooked up the old alternator output wire to the alternator and revved up the engine and still only read battery voltage, no charging current. I have a amp gauge and it also did not show charging. It used to show a charge when first started.

Maybe the amp gauge burnt out when the inline fuse melted??? I have another amp gauge I can replace the old one with. The alternator two wire plug is marked with F and A. Do I need to flash the alternator to get it to take off? By the way, the pulley size on the new alternator is slightly smaller than the old alternator pulley. Maybe the diesel engine is not spinning the new alternator fast enough?
Chris, if the pulley is smaller on the new alt., then the engine will spin it faster than the old one.
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  #27  
Old 07-01-2017, 07:30 PM
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Chris, if the pulley is smaller on the new alt., then the engine will spin it faster than the old one.
Duh! Guess I should not have mentioned that. Kinda spaced out I guess.
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  #28  
Old 07-01-2017, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Maybe the amp gauge burnt out when the inline fuse melted??? I have another amp gauge I can replace the old one with.

I would sooner believe that the new alternator is not an alternator, but instead it is an alternator shaped object.

Just check the voltage at the battery before you start it, and then check it again when running, and for good measure, check the voltage at idle with the lights on.
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  #29  
Old 07-01-2017, 08:58 PM
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The picture on the Wilton web site shows the terminals that you plug the control harness on to joined by a built in bridge.
A look into the cavity that the plug goes into will confirm if the terminals are connected together or not .
Since you can plug in that harness the picture is probably not correct for the alternator that you have and you need to connect the red and white control wires as if it was in a car with an idiot light. The red wire in the plug feeds a high resistance sensing network in the alternator and connects to a constant power point such as the output terminal on the alternator.
The white wire goes to a two wire ungrounded lamp mounted in the dash the other side of the lamp goes to a switched power point.
How it works
The red wire senses the battery voltage and controls the regulator.
The white wire provides power to the field and allows the alternator to start.
Once the alternator is charging a built in diode trio puts alternator output voltage on the alternator side of the bulb and the input to the regulator power circuit while the main output terminal supplies power to the battery side of the lamp .
since the same voltage is on both sides of the bulb it goes out indicating that the alternator is working.
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  #30  
Old 07-01-2017, 09:50 PM
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Duh! Guess I should not have mentioned that. Kinda spaced out I guess.
Don't feel bad, Chris, I have days like that myself. As a matter of fact, I had one today. I used up a whole 4X8 sheet of plywood today trying to cut a 22"X35" cover for an access to the attic. Finally got it right on the third try.........
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