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  #31  
Old 07-01-2017, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
The picture on the Wilton web site shows the terminals that you plug the control harness on to joined by a built in bridge.
A look into the cavity that the plug goes into will confirm if the terminals are connected together or not .
Since you can plug in that harness the picture is probably not correct for the alternator that you have and you need to connect the red and white control wires as if it was in a car with an idiot light. The red wire in the plug feeds a high resistance sensing network in the alternator and connects to a constant power point such as the output terminal on the alternator.
The white wire goes to a two wire ungrounded lamp mounted in the dash the other side of the lamp goes to a switched power point.
How it works
The red wire senses the battery voltage and controls the regulator.
The white wire provides power to the field and allows the alternator to start.
Once the alternator is charging a built in diode trio puts alternator output voltage on the alternator side of the bulb and the input to the regulator power circuit while the main output terminal supplies power to the battery side of the lamp .
since the same voltage is on both sides of the bulb it goes out indicating that the alternator is working.
So all I need is a idiot light mounted in the dash hat is fed by the white wire, then the other idiot light wire goes to an on/off switch. What does the other switch wire go to? Can I connect the red wire to the output connection on the alternator?
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  #32  
Old 07-01-2017, 10:43 PM
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The white wire goes to a two wire ungrounded lamp mounted in the dash the other side of the lamp goes to a switched power point.

This would be the ign. terminal on the key switch or any reasonable place that is powered when the key is on and the engine is running.
Note that you do not want the same power circuit that energizes the run circuit as the back feed from the alternator through the indicator lamp could provide enough power to hold the run device in the run condition.
If the engine has a mechanical stop device such as a pull to stop cable this would not be a concern
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  #33  
Old 07-01-2017, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
The white wire goes to a two wire ungrounded lamp mounted in the dash the other side of the lamp goes to a switched power point.

This would be the ign. terminal on the key switch or any reasonable place that is powered when the key is on and the engine is running.
Note that you do not want the same power circuit that energizes the run circuit as the back feed from the alternator through the indicator lamp could provide enough power to hold the run device in the run condition.
If the engine has a mechanical stop device such as a pull to stop cable this would not be a concern
There is no keyed power switch. It is a diesel with a fuel cut off pull cable. After I get back from Gerry's I will tackle this.
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  #34  
Old 07-02-2017, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
There is no keyed power switch. It is a diesel with a fuel cut off pull cable. After I get back from Gerry's I will tackle this.
After you get back from Gerry's you will have a picture of how wiring is done with your style alternator on my 544B, and how a one wire works on the old Case
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  #35  
Old 07-02-2017, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
There is no keyed power switch. It is a diesel with a fuel cut off pull cable. After I get back from Gerry's I will tackle this.
After you get back from Gerry's you will have a picture of how wiring is done with your style alternator on my 544B, and how a one wire works on the old Case
The wiring picture in this attachment is how to do it. In your case with about 4 ft of wire from the alt to the battery, voltage drop and load sensing is minimally different from the battery terminal, so you could connect the red wire from the plug pigtail to the Bat terminal, although the best is to the battery.
Here's another picture
Attached Files
File Type: pdf The Delco SI Alternator wiring.pdf (60.1 KB, 20 views)
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

Even duct tape can't fix stupid ... But it can muffle the sound.

Last edited by Ironman; 07-02-2017 at 09:17 AM.
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  #36  
Old 07-02-2017, 10:09 AM
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Pics are a great help to those of us who are electrically challenged. Thanks. I am going to O'Rilleys today to get the idiot light and toggle switch.
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  #37  
Old 07-02-2017, 10:40 AM
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Chris, here is another thought on the light and toggle switch.
further down on the comments...
Quote:

I didnt want to run a warning light on the excite wire and tried several way to hook it up, finally hit on a good way. Connect it to the unused pole on the starter that was originally used to supply power to the points during cranking, the momentary connection is all you need to get the alternator working then upon shutdown it can`t backfeed the ignition circuit. Works for me have done it several times. Just my 2 cents worth.

The alternator only needs momentary power to the white wire to excite the alternator, and then it takes over from that. Or go with the switch if you feel better about that.
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It is tempting to blame others for all this, especially those in control of the system, but don’t forget that for decades you voted for people who routinely lied before elections, and told you what you wanted to hear, that you could have it all right now and to hell with the future – well, that future has now arrived. Clive Maund

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  #38  
Old 07-02-2017, 06:01 PM
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The light does serve three purposes first it starts the alternator charging second it notifies you when the alternator stops charging and third it reminds you to turn the switch off after you stop the engine on gensets I feed the idiot light from the shut down supply point before the safety switches so it will not back feed through the light and possibly defeat the safety switches by holding the shutdown device energized after a fault has been detected.
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