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  #11  
Old 08-30-2017, 08:36 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Brian, prices are pretty high right now compared to what they were - they're blaming it on commerce being up, pot heads using 'em for grow rooms, etc, whatever...



I got the green 20 footer (see my last pic) a couple years ago for $2400 delivered - right now in my area you almost can't FIND a 20 footer other than LEASING, unless you want a "one-tripper" - 2 weeks ago I was quoted $3250 delivered for one of those (20 foot) - that's essentially a NEW container, it's been built/loaded/shipped/emptied ONCE (hence the name)

The two "nice" ones (definitely NOT new, but solid and dry) will cost me $2850 EACH, incl. delivery. Delivery in my area runs $400-$450 currently, so those 40 footers will run $2450 each PLUS the delivery.

There seems to be a LOT of bottom feeders doing this, so Caveat Emptor - before I found "my guy" there was one of those with 3-4 ads EVERY DAY in CL - they had a Corvallis number, but it actually RANG in LA. I found out thru another party that whatever "quality" you ASKED for, they tended to tell their drivers "just grab the next one that's available, and GET IT THERE - "

Long stories aside, I ended up filing a complaint with Amex, got MOST of my money back, but STILL ended up paying them for "canceling an order", blah blah... - When the dust settled it cost me just under $300 to tell them where they could shove their crap.

"my guy" is actually a driver with a few hired drivers too, delivers for several outfits but finds "deals" every once in a while - while I was looking for the next two, the ONLY outfit I asked him about that he DIDN'T warn me about, was THIS one

http://www.quickboxcontainers.com/Sales.htm

When I talked to them, Shane mentioned something about doing business in more than just the Portland area so if you're interested, you might call or email and ask - his price quotes on 40 footers were within $25 of what I'm paying. They quote lease prices on their site, but you gotta ASK if you wanna BUY.

Anyway, HTH... Steve
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2017, 02:34 AM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Quote:
I've seen Hiway's quickie toe jack thread, but occasionally could use a longer lift
While it did work once I finished it, in use I had to make a few small changes to make it work a tad better.

I was picking up each end of a 6' 13" S/B lathe putting it in place. I do not see how it could have been done with anything less.
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2017, 11:40 AM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Know whatcha mean, I doubt ANYTHING I ever built stopped at "Version 1.0"

First 40 footer delivered yesterday, driver not the sharpest spoon in the drawer but he at least got it where I wanted LENGTHWISE - not quite there for distance from the shop wall (roof later, leaving 12' wide COVERED area between can and shop) -

One end was 'bout 2" off, other 'bout 7" - not acceptible to my OCD side, like to make "modules" all the same so I can gang cut, etc...

About 15 minutes later both ends were less than 1/4" off, I'd already shot the area with rotary laser so leveling should consist of small shims as things settle.

Second 40 footer due in manana early, will go back to back with the first one - driver said he can't put it up against the first one because of tilt, etc - so I'll have him get it as close as possible, add a couple ROLLERS to the "arsenal", put a couple more 4x6's LENGTHWISE under the sides, WINCH it into place and THEN level it.

Before I try to use the FIRST can to help move the SECOND one, I'll park the two smaller tractors ('bout 5k pounds each) inside the first can for a little extra ballast - after yesterday I'm 99.4% sure it'll go the way I want it to...

Anyway, only shot one pic yesterday, here tiz... Steve
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2017, 12:54 PM
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monckywrench monckywrench is offline
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Containers roll nicely on pipe atop railroad ties, steel beams etc. They are easy to winch together with chain looped through the corner fittings. I also use tow truck J-hook chains. (Everyone should have a couple of those with a grab hook or vehicle hook cluster at the opposite end from the J-hook.)

If you want to join two side-by-side, you could shear half a 4x8x1/8" sheet into 2" strips. I did that for my roof joint. I tacked the high side (non-identical containers are common) then welded it all the way down. I then hammered it to close the gap with the low side and welded that.

Pics are my air bag jack designed for how I manually move containers. I don't need the jack to resist container movement, since when you lift one side or end the opposite provides enough drag for stability at modest lift heights. Otherwise I'd stabilize the top like the air bag jacks on Youtube which inspired me.

I used to jack then winch until my jack tipped over (blocks catch the container leaving enough room to repeat the operations) as the container moved. I still do that too but the bag jack is nice for higher lifts and offsets well enough without tipping. The channel (hunk of wood shows how lower container sides rest in the channel) pivots on a center bolt. That way I can make different fittings for moving other stuff. I only raised my container about a foot. If I went higher I'd use two comealongs opposite each other for positive control.

Inline ball shutoff valve prevents bleeding down and allows controlled lowering. I normally place it on the other end of the air hose.

I like your toe jack design because they are so simple and instantly removable for transport or if a jack has problems. I'll make a set for machinery moves. They pick from a lower height than my forklift jack and if I appropriately bevel the lift plate I could beat one underneath a machine base then slide the bottle jack underneath. Thanks for posting!
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  #15  
Old 09-04-2017, 03:44 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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No prob, be my guest at "xerox engineering"

I made this set for just the purpose, but even WITHOUT mods I can see 'em coming in handy for OTHER stuff - you can see by the pics I didn't skimp on the bevels, wanted good deep penetration that'd match the 3/4 FB or better. Did multi-pass stringers with .035 hard wire, MM252 at (IIRC) 22 volts/400 ipm, C25 (suggested for 5/16 material) - anytime I need a weld to be more than just "pretty" (like end caps that aren't structural) I find I get better results slowing down, ALWAYS leading the puddle (push of course) and at least TWICE as much LIGHT as YOUNG peeps seem to need

Anyway, the only part I was even slightly worried about was the long piece of FB with no place to sneak any gussets in; needn't have worried, couple times I lifted the whole end of the can with just ONE jack, no signs of even the SLIGHTEST flex

BTW, these work even better from a SIDE lift - the can sockets have a little 1" wide shelf built in, if you look in from the SIDE hole you can see it at the bottom inside end of the socket. It's NOT there going in from the front. That 3/4x3 FB is a perfect slip fit into either hole, I made mine 3/4" longer than the full depth of the hole so it'd clear the welds, came out just right.

Cribbing - got a couple chunks of 6x6 PT, useta be poles in my shop when it was a pole barn. Before I poured the slab I built trusses in place then dropped the two middle poles out for a clear span, still got 'em in one of the "resource" piles, they're about 14' long. For lenghwise movement they (and the rollers) can slip under the long channels, much easier and I could almost just use a pinch bar to move it. (not that I WOULD, when moving anything that weighs more than me I prefer things like chains, binders, chain comealongs, and if necessary a 12k pound backhoe for a tie-off/ backstop...)

Air bags are cool, it's unreal how much they can do - our big chlorinator/reactors where I worked had servo controlled ones supporting them and pushing up against a seal for connection to the scrubbers - the reactors (8 ft diameter, 40 ft long, 1/2 to 1-1/2" steel, plus a fiberglass inner liner) got set in place with a 30 ton fork lift.

I thought they'd lost their marbles when engineers came up with that design til I did the math - the air bags were 30" diameter, and at 120 psi would lift over 70,000 pounds. (Unfortunately I haven't seen any on CL for cheap, so I don't have any ) Steve
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2017, 12:20 AM
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A few months after I got the SB in place, I ran across a RailRoad use toe jack of about 100lbs, a little over 2' tall, but the thing had a toe height of 2 inches when completely down and raised a good 12" when cranked up.

Between it and my pair of farm jacks, I can scare the crap out of myself in no time at all.
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2017, 08:35 AM
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I am a fan of containers, I have a 2200 sq ft shop built that way. Noted that you have the bottom lifting lip vertical, and that gives it strength, but it would limit getting under other things a bit. No problem for cans though.
Seacans are quite light, 7000lb aprox., so lifting one end with two jacks give you a great safety margin, each jack loaded about 1750 lb.
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  #18  
Old 09-05-2017, 05:48 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Yeah, Gerry - I have the 20 footer (see pic in this thread) that will get a 3' man door opposite end of the double doors, it'll become my "weld shop", whose secondary benefit will be clearing out the garage space currently occupied with 3 welders and plasma - also will clear some space in the bigger shop currently occupied by the Grizz mill (which will be IN the "weld can", but separated by fiberglass curtains -

ONE of the 40 footers will mostly be my "working inventory"; it's long enough I can make a steel rack for one side that'll handle 24' sticks, and be accessible with the 580B and "yet another pair of tinker toys" that'll let me load/unload an entire bundle lengthwise with minimal effort (that one's still rattling around in me head )

The other one (slightly LESS accessible in wet weather, but doable) will get everything mentioned earlier in this thread plus a full-size rack of bins full of hydraulic parts, another rack of "misc. inventory", few more "shop quality" plywood cabinets, all currently residing on my front porch (one of my FEW cherished DRY places outside)

Yep on the bottom lip, those were purpose built for this job- but as usual, I've already found a couple other things they can work for as is - eventually I may build something like the enerpac vid I linked to at the beginning of this thread, but at the moment that's probably 40-50 projects down from the top of the (fluid) list.

I'm basically taking all of today "off", spent the entire day yesterday in 100 degree heat getting things prepped for the second can - cut the neighbor fence (mutual benefit/aggreement) and installed 2 10 foot gates so there was enough "wiggle room" for the driver to set the can and get away from it, then moved/spread 10 yards of 3/4minus rock that ALSO woulda been in the way - driver showed up at 7am this morning as promised, and was gone by about 7:45.

'Sposed to be cooler manana, so the second can will sit there on the ground til then, at which time me and my various "mad scientist" toys will likely have it in place and leveled by nightfall, sooner if all goes reasonably... Steve
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2017, 10:58 PM
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Steve, I kept expecting to see pictures showing the welded-up finished product here because I was wondering if this pre-welded mockup, picture #1 in post #6 was it, or was there more added to it?

And second, why do you keep your toilet paper in a cottage cheese tub?
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2017, 04:36 AM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Rod, I'm sorry about the mystery, I was under a time crunch cause the timetable kept changing on container arrival - no, there were no more pieces added but yes, they stay together better than they WOULD have without a LOT of stringer beads adding up to a bit more weld than the parent metal cross-section -

Actually ONE of the "converters" needs a couple touch-up welds and a few bb's knocked off, then I'll probly shoot 'em with some smoke gray enamel so it'll tie in with the newer HF jack and/or contrast with the reddish-orangish whatever the older HF jack is painted -

Gonna be gettin' back into it manana, ALMOST managed to screw off an entire day, then went out and made the double 10 foot gates closing off the neighbor's place a bit more permanently hinged and latched than bungee cords

Probly add a few more pics tomorrow sometime...

Oh - you mean not everybody keeps their TP in a cottage cheese container? I'm not a fan of the wimpy-ass stuff they sell as kleenex so I use (fresh) TP, I can roll off however much I need - and I get ENOUGH dust up the schnozz just from dusty gravel (and lately, all the smoke and ash plus, the container keeps the whole roll from unreeling when it's over 100 where I'm workin' and have at least two fans on... Steve

BTW, ya MISSED the half of a gallon clorox jug that does the same job for the paper towel roll
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