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  #11  
Old 09-21-2017, 09:18 AM
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For adjustments, just go with the heat gun. The toaster oven works best for keeping the full sheet at temperature evenly. It's way too much for a quick fix.

I'd suggest finding the spot that it's tight, concentrating most of your heat in that area, and then sliding the gun in and out as it cools. Most likely it's at the upper edges of the slide, but could be down around the rail as well.

The blue tape is deceiving. You have to read the label carefully or at least look it over. 3M redesigned it, and now it comes in an 'original' and a 'foamy'. It doesn't say that on the label. The original has no issues and isn't gummy at all. The foamy gums everything up as it seems to melt together. It really sucks and I don't even think it'd work that great for painting. I guess because it's a tad thicker it should create a larger ridge that theoretically would separate easier. In any case, don't use it where there's heat involved.

You really don't need it for a simple adjustment. The plastic doesn't need to be any hotter than the gun would get during firing, so the firearm can handle it. The tape will leach oil from the surface of the gun, as well as strip any powder residue. This will scare the shit out of ya if you're not expecting it. A good cleaning and a rubdown with an oily rag will fix it. But suddenly seeing a line of discolored metal running through a Desert Eagle .50 will get your heart rate up. All that to say, the tape won't leave any residue. It will actually remove a lot of it .
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  #12  
Old 09-21-2017, 02:45 PM
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Dub, while I CC a few different pistols, a glock and a (get ready for it) a Lady S&W that my Mom carried till she died. I kept it and keep it handy due to it's size and ease of concealment. Being 38sp it will make a hole.

My question is how much difference in wear of the guns finish will be present with constant use in and out of a plastic holster over a suitably sized leather holster?

As most know, I do not shoot firearms weekly or monthly for that matter as all of my shooting involves BB or Pellet guns and rifles, so about the only time my powder guns only see light when pulled, unloaded and cleaned and replaced into the holsters and zippered enclosures. (most of the time).

Very concise explanation of your work indeed.
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Old 09-21-2017, 03:13 PM
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Nicely done Dubby. Kydex is an interesting animal, I used it for awhile but gravitated towards leather. My first knife sheath I made, I got the knife locked in when I pressed it and had to use the heat gun to get it out


LW
My experience with the plastic stuff is that it doesn't wear too badly until it gets a little dirt in it. You might see the hard edges getting shiney but it won't ruin the finish of a working gun by any means if kept clean.
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Old 09-21-2017, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
How well do you think it would work for a chipping hammer?
Oh for crying out loud.
You're supposed to carry the chipping hammer in your teeth!
Surely you saw Lemke & the other old-school Navy vets showing off at the last git-together?
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2017, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubby View Post
For adjustments, just go with the heat gun...

I'd suggest finding the spot that it's tight, concentrating most of your heat in that area, and then sliding the gun in and out as it cools...

The blue tape is deceiving. You have to read the label carefully or at least look it over. 3M redesigned it, and now it comes in an 'original' and a 'foamy'. It doesn't say that on the label. The original has no issues and isn't gummy at all. The foamy gums everything up as it seems to melt together...In any case, don't use it where there's heat involved.
WTF! So how do I tell WHAT flavor of blue I have?

Can I double-layer the tape to get more "stretch"?

Do you think I should unload the gun? I don't think you mentioned that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
My first knife sheath I made, I got the knife locked in when I pressed it and had to use the heat gun to get it out
I have this same concern...
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2017, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
Oh for crying out loud.
You're supposed to carry the chipping hammer in your teeth!
Surely you saw Lemke & the other old-school Navy vets showing off at the last git-together?


Well, all that was said at the GTG I have to put under the heading "Rumor, Hearsay, and Popular Opinion." There definitely was a lot of talk, but other than Smokin's cooking, not much actual work or other projects actually worked on.


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  #17  
Old 09-22-2017, 09:22 PM
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A rough edge/spot in the plastic will wear the finish much faster than a leather holster does, particularly if it's subject to a lot of movement. It doesn't necessarily have to be in and out, a slight jiggle when walking will scuff the finish. If you smooth and buff the plastic out, almost all the wear disappears with it. You'll rub through the finish eventually, but the plastic takes most of the wear.

Leather, in my experience, seems to rub through the finish much like stropping a knife. It's smooth and even and eventually you just rub a hole in the coating. You likely won't wear the leather out--it too just gets smoother and harder with age.


As to the tape, the 'new' formula feels thicker and more spongy. The old one feels like traditional masking tape but is a tad thicker. You can add as much as you want. Getting the heat right is more important. Plastic gets soft before it melts. Some don't have much room inbetween the two points. Go slow and just focus on the tightest areas first. A little can go a long way.


As a certified NRA Range Safety Officer my advise is this: your gun should never be loaded unless you're about to shoot it at a properly designed NRA range. However, all guns are always loaded and should be treated as such, your finger should be off the trigger until you've achieved perfect sight picture and alignment, make sure you're willing to destroy whatever is in front of your sights, and be aware of your target and what's behind it.

As a guy who makes plastic holsters in his parent's garage and then puts pictures of them on the internet: What's the matter with you? You a dumbass? Of course unload it... or don't. But if you don't be sure and video the entire process so we can see you yell, "Oh my GAWWWDDD. I just f'kn shot myself!!!" and then knock the camera over as you run out of your bedroom crying.

The caveat here though, which is kinda important if you ever decide to heat a polymer gun: Make sure you have an EMPTY mag in the chamber when applying heat. You can melt the grip and magwell enough on the pistol that it'll give you issues in the future.
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  #18  
Old 09-22-2017, 10:09 PM
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Thanks Dub, I've never had use of or saw the need for a plastic holder of that sort. But can see it as possibly easier to work with for an intended outcome.

Kudo's on the works you've done.

It becomes an issue for concealed carry as I don't wear pants or a belt and only jackets etc when it's cold. But do have something just inside behind the right or left side of my Bibs that seems to work, conceal and feels quite safely situated.

I guess to some it would look like reaching for a cig in a shirt pocket.
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