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  #1  
Old 10-06-2017, 06:43 PM
raulie morse raulie morse is offline
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some info I've never come across or known, YMMV
http://www.metalformingmagazine.com/....asp?aid=13208
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:11 PM
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toprecycler toprecycler is offline
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Couple weeks ago had a 3-M sales rep come in with LWS sales rep and sell the boss in some new grinding wheels. Also got some new sanding discs to try. I spoke with him and he checked my 4 1/2” grinders and said I will not get the best performance from his disc because they are not powerful enough for the sanding pads. I only have 7-8 amp metabo grinder, and he said ideally the grinder should be a 11 amp so when cutting, it will not bog down and keep the surface speed of the pad up. And then as it is used, new cutting surfaces will be formed also. It only took two weeks to get them delivered, so I will see how they fair next week.


But that said, I did pick up a 3-M cubitron 4 1/2” hard wheel at the LWS and it is hands down a cutting fool. It was expensive at about $9, but it cut all the way to the end. The other hard wheels we have been getting seem to cut for a while, then really slow down with the disc only 1/4 gone. I had done a test on some pieces of steel, and what the cheapo disc took 9 seconds, the 3-M did in about 3.


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Old 10-06-2017, 07:24 PM
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platypus20 platypus20 is offline
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I always buy the trimmable ones, to me the ones with the woven backs are pure shit.

Brian,

The comment about the amps is funny, the Walter rep says the exact opposite. I use 8 amp Metabos all the time with flap wheels, with no problems.
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Last edited by platypus20; 10-06-2017 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:27 PM
AussieTom AussieTom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
Couple weeks ago had a 3-M sales rep come in with LWS sales rep and sell the boss in some new grinding wheels. Also got some new sanding discs to try. I spoke with him and he checked my 4 1/2” grinders and said I will not get the best performance from his disc because they are not powerful enough for the sanding pads. I only have 7-8 amp metabo grinder, and he said ideally the grinder should be a 11 amp so when cutting, it will not bog down and keep the surface speed of the pad up. And then as it is used, new cutting surfaces will be formed also. It only took two weeks to get them delivered, so I will see how they fair next week.


But that said, I did pick up a 3-M cubitron 4 1/2” hard wheel at the LWS and it is hands down a cutting fool. It was expensive at about $9, but it cut all the way to the end. The other hard wheels we have been getting seem to cut for a while, then really slow down with the disc only 1/4 gone. I had done a test on some pieces of steel, and what the cheapo disc took 9 seconds, the 3-M did in about 3.


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I use the cubitron hard grinding disks and sanding pads, ones with the rubber backing pad and replacable (sandpaper) disks. They move metal faster than anything short of a machine tool. I am constantly recomending them to other tradies, price is well worth the improvement. With normal grinding disks, try undoing the nut and rotating the disk 1/4 turn or so. It unbalances the disk enough to break up the loading between grains and expose a fresh cutting edge.

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  #5  
Old 10-06-2017, 09:31 PM
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toprecycler toprecycler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by platypus20 View Post
I always buy the trimmable ones, to me the ones with the woven backs are pure shit.

Brian,

The comment about the amps is funny, the Walter rep says the exact opposite. I use 8 amp Metabos all the time with flap wheels, with no problems.

Jack,
I believe he was talking about the flat sanding pads. He gave us a new rubber backing pad and a sample 36 grit disc, but he did not have the center hub so I have not had a chance to try it out.

I had mentioned to him that I usually would rather use a 60 grit pad because it will last much longer than a 36 grit and cut more.

I do like using flap wheels. They do buff in rail joints smooth. But sometimes I do like to grind first with a regular sanding disc because I grind the weld down flat without over grinding, or when doing a miter joint on pipe, will create a sharp corner at the joint, and then slightly round it so it is smooth when running your hand over it. The hard part is trying to keep all joints looking like they are ground all the same. Even harder is trying to teach the new guys to do that. It only took me about 10 years to avoid overgrinding every joint.


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Last edited by toprecycler; 10-07-2017 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Fix iphone typo
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